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selling flowers in front of San Martino abbey |
Olimpia Maidalchini was one of the most powerful women of the 1600s for as sister–in-law and reputed mistress of Pope Innocent X Pamphili, she held the purse strings of the Vatican, appointed cardinals and negotiated with foreign ambassadors .
Eleanor Herman, author of a fascinating biography of Olimpia, "Mistress of the Vatican, tells the story her life as "the secret female pope".
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portrait bust of Olimpia by A. Algardi, circa 1650 |
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interior of Abbey church |
To escape the plague devastating Rome, Olimpia retired to her hilltop town of San Martino (today a suburb of Viterbo) in 1656 .
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row houses of San Martino al Cimino |
There she restructured the village making it the first example of town planning, built the magnificent abbey church and acted as benefactor to dowry less girls.
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series of photo-paintings by local artist |
Her wealth and power did not keep the plague away, and today her tomb can be admired in the apse of the huge church.
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tomb of Olimpia Maidalchini |
A perfect weekend outing just outside Viterbo, San Martino is known for its chestnuts and each October a festival is held to honor this local crop.
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roasting chestnuts in huge "swing" |
The festival , now in its 24th year, sees market stalls in the historic center of San Martino which has been denoted a natural shopping center .
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vigili urbani and panorama of the Sagra |
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colorful bags by B. Coluccia |
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Barbara Coluccia's handknitted hats and scarves |
There are several handicrafts dealers selling jewellery, leather,textiles as well as gastronomic products of the area.
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entrance to the Cantinone, Palazzo Doria Pamphili |
The local restaurants offer special menus at a set price ( 25 euro) and in the Cantinone, once the stables of Donna Olimpia’s palace, tables are set up offering an abundant lunch (at 20 euro) for hundreds of visitors.
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Alessandro's leather bags |
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Gioia Carpino makes jewelery |
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antipasto misto, mushroom soup, polenta, beans and steak
followed by roast chestnuts and biscott
Autumn dishes served during the Sagra include zuppa di ceci e castagne (soup of chickpeas and chestnuts), porcini mushrooms, sausages , grilled meats and suckling pig (maialino). |
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Montblanc |
For those who are still hungry after the abundant 5-course meal, there are sweets such as castagne al rum con fonduta di cioccolato (chestnuts with rum and chocolate fondue), tozzetti with vinsanto, Montblanc and crostate with ricotta and chestnut puree.
The Sagra continues on 29, 30,31 October and l November. ..rain or shine....
Looks like a great festival!
ReplyDeleteI never knew of this secret female pope. So contradictory to Scripture; God would be angry at such a thing, the Vatican should be ashamed.
ReplyDeleteDear Anonymous,glad you learned something new from my article. That's what its for, to reveal the really interesting bits of history and travel.
DeleteI think the Vatican has much more to be ashamed of, not this gutsy woman who took life by the horns and made things happen.