Vallerano : Christmas in small town Italy

grotto shrine in the main church, Vallerano

Vallerano, a typical small hilltown north of Rome  is known  for its hazelnuts, wine production and lively summer festivals. 
 The symbolic  lily of the noble Farnese family adorns towers, fountains  and the ancient walls that have kept the town’s  medieval flavor in  - and the cars out.  

Farnese lily symbols abound 

At  Christmas  time the sober  decorations are low key and traditional, ignoring  the crass commercialization seen in  big cities and suburban malls.

pedestrian access to Vallerano 

 Piped music entices locals and visitors  to stroll along  the narrow streets of the medieval  quarter  where doorways, piazzas and cantine are decorated with  Christmas nativity scenes.  

holy water fount in San Vittore church, Vallerano

Renaissance palace with  climbing Santa 

One can find handmade  local crafts in wood and wool as well as traditional foods  and sweets, vintage and antique pieces as well as a train ride. 

wooden bracelets and design objects 

Luciano's mini furniture

Here are some photos taken today. If you feel a need to escape the  hype of big city Christmas, take a drive to Vallerano next Sunday, Dec 21^st  for  the final day of “Vallerano Incantato”.
Have you visited Vallerano or any of the other hill towns in Northern Lazio?  Your comments are welcome. Please share with friends. 

a side altar San Vittore, Vallerano

cat in a corner of the town

window garden 

Madonna del Ruscello  (1609) 

archway 

train through the historic center 

 Many more stories and information about life in central Italy, Northern Lazio  can be found on my award winning  website ,  Hope you find time to check it out! 

Antiques are for Poor People Too

If you  like the TV show “A Caccia di  Tesori”  (Treasure Hunters) where "pickers" Frank and Mike  dig through old houses and  barns  searching for  antique objects  which they in turn sell for a profit, then this week story is for you.  Share with your friends who are collectors, especially those planning a trip to Italy.

1940s bedroom ensemble and chandelier 

Back in the  70s and 80s  the  Viterbo area was  the perfect hunting ground for  dealers and private collectors, especially young couples  trying  to furnish a  first apartment  with  taste but little cash.

This is an article written back in  1980  in which I gave tips on where  to discover inexpensive  antique furnishings in the Rome area.

It is still true for  the numerous second hand markets, restauratori, raccogliatori  and rigattieri   along the Via Cassia between Rome and Viterbo  are  the living proof. 

There is a large market  in Capranica, another  at the entrance  to Vetralla  and several others in Viterbo. (Coming next-San Pietro Restauro in Viterbo)

which  Singer  sings to you ? 

lovely wood cabinet, price tag 100 euro 

 “During the week the local people  bring us  stuff they clean out from their cantinas and  attics, then on the weekends  the romani arrive  to  buy.“explained the manager of one shop. 

Its  a win-win  situation for  them:   50% of the selling price,  the original owners who supply the merchandise   are happy to eliminate surplus  furnishings and the out of town buyers are delighted to have sourced  original  antique pieces, often to be restored. 

The century-old  bedsteads and wardrobes  fly out of the shop  allowing  the young owners (previously unemployed) a pretty good living. 

1930s vanity table 

On my most recent visit I noted some gold-rimmed dinner plates bearing the mark of the Richard Ginori factory which  had  just closed  after 300 years: 3 euro each bought me a piece of history.  

Hanging  out of reach was this carved, gilded  19th century mirror  with original mercury backing: a great buy at 15 euro.

old repairs on the back of the mirror 

new home  next to fresco by Valerio  Cugia and  icons 

After  the dust and grime  of decades was removed it now has a place of honor on the library mantle. 

The large warehouse is chock full of carved wooden bed frames, wardrobes and  nightstands  as well as old Singer sewing machines, classical chests of drawers and good solid tables  not found at Ikea. 

solid table  going for  100 euro 

 There are shelves full of tiny objects  much sought after  by  travelers, old records, typewriters and fridges from the 50s.

 Frank and Mike  would love this place.

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Money Saving Christmas Shopping in Italy

Fighting off the commercialism  of Christmas is easy  in small town Italy where the buzz words have always been  handmade, local and  thrifty. 
We are mailing out signed copies of our books  daily  to be sure they arrive in time for the holidays. You can save on postage costs to USA by  ordering  a copy of Etruria-travel, history and itineraries  together with a copy of Olio e Ricordi in Cucina.  Order directly through my website.  

Here in the hill towns of Etruria,  an hour north of Rome along the Via Cassia,  the atmosphere is light years away from the frenzy of  commercial malls and big city mega stories.

With the olive harvest just finished, these first weeks of  December  are dedicated  to celebrating the new  extra virgin olive oil. 

In restaurants and homes, bruschetta doused with the new oil is offered and  in former churches, cantinas, piazzas and tiny artisans’ workshops  there are  markets and exhibits of  objects created by local artisans.  

Anna Meloni crafts  macrame jewlery 

elegant pieces  by Marisa 

Diana Biscaioli 's  designer objects in felt

In the past 24 hours we visited the first of  these  artisans’ shows. As Christmas nears several others will be happening on weekends  in Viterbo and surrounding towns. 

diarte.wordpress.com   felt vase covers 

 If you know of other Christmas fairs and artisans'  exhibits  in  other  parts of Italy, please tell us about them in a  comment at the end of this article. 

Yesterday we drove to the next town,Capranica, just as the Christmas lights were being  turned on, creating  a holiday atmosphere for  the craft show in the ancient church of San Francesco. 

view of Capranica  historic center

Overlooked  by the 15^th century double Anguillara funerary monument, were  tables  full of   locally produced crafts in wool,  felt, ceramic, wood and sculpted  stone.

Anguillara  double funerary monument 

elegant  cradle and table 

Daniela Andreotti's ceramics 

Roberto Ceccarini of Artepetra 

The excellent prices are a further  benefit of buying locally and directly from the artisans themselves. 

With little or no overhead, the crafts people can offer hand painted cushions at 10-20 euro, ceramics and paintings at 5 to 20 euro, hand fashioned jewelery  and key chains  starting from  5 euros.   

Besides  olive oil, the area is also famous  for  hazelnuts and derived products, samples of which were offered  at the stands of    local farmers' cooperatives.   Christmas baskets  of  gourmet food   are an intelligent gift to suit anyone on your gift list.

hard to find apples

From Caprarola, crafts and edibles

crafted leather  earrings and pendants 

fashion accessories by Laura 

Antiques  and vintage objects  are  often  found in these pre-Christmas  markets.

 I found a vintage straw-work box from Russia (10  euro) to add to my collection of boxes. 

Fiorella  came from Canino  with antique boxes  and knick knacks  

Copper, glass and  other  knick knacks  as well as  decorated furniture, vintage clothing, bags, books and jewelery beckon  from various shop fronts along the main street of Vetralla. Next weekend (Dec 8-9)  the fair  will be repeated. 

Daniela Carnevali's floral compositions 

Cristina's vintage  clothing

There are always surprises during these weekend festivals: a group of parents had set up a bake sale  in the town hall to benefit their kids'  school. We happily purchased a crostata, biscotti and  cakes  wrapped in cellophane. 

Piazza S. Egidio, Vetralla 

Copper  pieces, La Fenice of Fiorella Tassoni

Simona & Simona crafting Christmas ornaments

Another  unexpected  vision was this vintage fridge topped by an antique map of New England. 

What better way to  keep warm than hand knitted wool and mohair  caps, gloves and  scarves like these found next to   wood and ceramic crafts made by members of the same family.  

Iria's wool caps 

wooden owls