Thursday, March 24, 2011

An Unusual View of Italy's Risorgimento

We all recognize this Risorgimento character   on the left....



           ...but who was this ?

If you want  to learn more about the Risorgimento, especially   the little-known  international aspects  of Italy's  unification movement,     this is a  book for you.


Until now the stories of  the 1000 Irish volunteers of the St. Patrick's Brigade who fought for the Pope and the  1000 English excursionists who sailed to Italy to fight with Garibaldi were  forgotten episodes of the Risorgimento.


"The Irish and English in Italy's Risorgimento"   now available in a limited edition of 200 numbered copies , promises  to  become a collectors'  item.

 Thanks to research spanning several decades  I have been able to unearth  documents and information  on the process that prompted Irish and English volunteers  to risk their positions and lives to fight in the Risorgimento battles of  far-away Italy.


Contents  include  confidential letters, diaries and secret documents regarding the Irish and English who volunteered to fight in  battles  on Italian soil in  1860.
There are  chapters on the foreign brigades, attitudes towards the papacy, volunteers' culture shock, spies,  scandals, propaganda, the English -and Irish- who volunteered for Garibaldi,  missing medals, caricatures, scandals and doubles, sailing for Sicily, correspondents, poetry, music and the volunteer movement, lists of  Irish soldiers.
180 pages, index, maps, bibliography, 10 pages of   images and  portraits.


Order  directly  from the author   macryan@alice.it   and pay   with paypal. Cost  15 euros  plus postage.
For  the e-book format  contact www.edizioniarcheoares.it .

Sunday, March 13, 2011

The Wisdom of Tuscany by Ferenc Maté

In his latest book Ferenc Maté gives an intimate look into life in the Tuscan countryside and why  it should be a model for sustainable living in our global world.
 He also gives some pointers on how this can be achieved..even if you don't happen to live, as he and his family do, in a beautifully restored ancient Tuscan villa surrounded by vineyards.

With humor and personal tidbits about his early life in Hungary,  growing up in Canada and as a world traveler, Maté explains that it is not the quantity of stuff, the size of house,car or boat, but the little things and personal  connections that make life satisfying.

His musings on the importance of neighbors, freedom of children to grow up in a healthy society, the ability to find satisfaction and magic in small simple things all strike true notes.
 A good read from cover to cover, the book can also be opened at random for  a daily dose of Tuscan wisdom.  It is almost like sitting down with Ferenc for a chat over a glass of vino - which he mentions often, since he and his wife Candace produce one of Montalcino's wonderful wines.

an ancient convent surrounded  by the  vineyards  

The Wisdom of Tuscany is not a romp through the luscious Tuscan landscape and lifestyle, it goes beyond the pretty prose that fills travel books and  Hollywood  films. Nor is his prose anything like that of "instant" writers who blog about their  golden expat lifestyle.

The Maté family are year round residents  who make a living creating fine wine and  books - both difficult tasks that can be backbreaking and lonely.  This book is also a hymn to small town safety, the multi-generational family, closeness to nature and quality of life. 
As the world gets more  global and hectic  our sense of isolation increases. The fact that people continue to need each other and stick together as they do in smaller Italian towns is reassuring. 
entrance to the cantina 
Provincial Italy -in any of the 20 regions, not just Tuscany- is not a "golden ghetto" for the elite. Those of us who are permanent residents face problems daily that are very real, problems that a 2-week visitor does not see nor even imagine. Even expats who have trasferred permanently  to Italy spend years in the "honeymoon phase" before  becoming aware of what really goes on. 

In the past few years the rolling landscape of central Italy has been experiencing  an invasion of monstrous giant  eolica towers of wind farms "planted" on the  photogenic hills by unscrupulous speculators who live far away. Some towns have problems with arsenic in the water  and we all know of bright young university graduates who have had to emigrate abroad to find decent jobs. 
An interior courtyard 

As a long time resident  I found some of the book's observations obvious, almost hackneyed. But then I realized that  Maté's  target audience is made up of the thousands of wishful North Americans who live in mega-cities and bland suburbs.  It is easy to forget how different things are "over there" for we do   get used to wine at meals and freshly baked bread every day. After a few decades  we take  these things, and  our extra virgin olive oil,  quite   for granted forgetting that these are  considered luxuries  outside of Italy.

Ferenc must have kept dedicated diaries of his first impressions  for his narration  creates  images   that roll easily off  the  keyboard. His style is witty and  the language  similar to that of Polish-born novelist Conrad, who, like Maté , wrote in his second language -English.
Come in for a glass of wine
Wisdom of Tuscany ends with a selection of simple recipes  by  family friend Pino Luongo; basic foods to be enjoyed with family and friends  gathered  in the kitchen and of course, a glass of Maté's Montalcino.

Next month I hope to showcase another writer who escaped the big city to follow a simpler, but tougher, lifestyle. I already have a few in mind, but readers' suggestions are welcome.


                                  

Thursday, February 24, 2011

Ireland and Italy share a common celebration

first printed map of Ireland, 1590

Over 700 million Irish -and those of Irish descent- scattered  in all corners of the globe  will be enjoying a   long weekend on March 17th  full of  festivities and  parades  in honor of St. Patrick’s Day .  For the first time Italy will be celebrating the day too,  for  March 17th  has been proclaimed  a National Holiday  in honor of the country’s   150th anniversary of   unification .  
Italy and Ireland have shared  connections for a long time. 
Irish pilgrims, saints and scholars gravitated  toward Rome while   legend tells us that even the patron saint of Ireland -Patrick-was originally from Italy.   In  the ancient basilica of St. Stefano Rotondo set in  the quiet of  Rome’s Caelian hill  there are curved

walls  frescoed with  gory scenes of  martyrdom and   also  a plaque


 commemorating  Brian Boru’s son, King Donnchadh of Munster, 


who died during a pilgrimage to Rome and was buried here in 1064.


  Monumental graves in front of the altar of  St. Pietro in Montorio


 on  the Janiculum    are  testament to a  group of  exiled  Irish Earls


 led by Hugh O’Neill who fled to Rome  in 1607.
model   St. Patrick's Brigade  uniform 1860


The first printed map of Ireland appeared in “Le Isole piu famose del mondo” in 1590 where Venetian cartographer Tommaso Porcacchi showed Hibernia laying on its side. In the 18th and 19th centuries many Italians migrated to Ireland including Charles 
Bianconi who organized an entire transport system for Ireland
including coaches which crisscrossed the country and a system
of postal stations, inns and mail delivery. Even today Bianconi
Inns can be found in smaller Irish towns .
Among the Irish  saints and scholars  who were  regularly  “exported”   to Italy many  left  indelible marks  on the Eternal City . One was Franciscan Luke Wadding who set up St. Isidore’s Church and the Irish College. Dominican priest Joseph Mullooly  excavated  under  San Clemente‘s   Cosmastesque pavements  to find  an earlier 4th century church and, on a still lower level, a pagan Mithraic temple and Roman houses.  Besides being an amateur archaeologist, Mullooly was also an important figure in a little-known chapter of the Risorgimento  which  gives  Irish and Italians  a common reason for  
celebrating this March 17.
Pope Pius IX
 In 1860 along with  Paul Cullen,  head of the Irish College in


 Rome,  Mullooly  was the  mediator between Austro-Irish officers


 and the papal government for the formation of the St. Patrick’s 


Irish Brigade.   Prior to 1860 Pius IX and his counsellors had


 doubts concerning the enlistment of Irish soldiers to defend


 Papal territory. 

 But by January 1860 Pius IX had changed his mind due to  the seriousness of the situation in central Italy and sent  Count Charles MacDonnell,an Austrian officer of Irish descent, to Dublin to  organize  the volunteer movement.


 During the summer of 1860 over 1,000 Irish volunteers travelled from Ireland to Italy where they  participated in the battles of Spoleto, Castelfidardo, Ancona and Perugia.

Fighting  valiantly  against enormous odds they wrote  a short but glorious chapter in the history of the  Italian Risorgimento to be remembered during this year’s  Unification  celebrations .
You can order  a copy  of my book on this subject directly  ...there are less than 100 copies  left.  

Tuesday, February 22, 2011

Vetralla’s Carnevale – ItalianNotebook.com

Since  this  Sunday  February 27  will be  the first of the Carnival parades here in Vetralla,  here is the story I wrote about last year's parade which featured  the  Simpsons  and  some satirical  floats about Italian politics.
Little has changed  in a year, so take a look at
Vetralla’s Carnevale – ItalianNotebook.com

We are expecting  some American students   from the Viterbo USAC program to join in the festivities.   Who else  is coming ?
 For the entire Carnivale  program check http://www.prolocovetralla.it/Pro-Loco/programmacarnevale2011.htm

The parade starts at 3 p.m. and includes   giant floats and hundreds of costumed revelers .  If you want to  come earlier  to explore the picturesque medieval streets and have lunch,  I recommend  La Lanterna  a family-run trattoria  right  in the  historic center  on the parade route.

Friday, February 18, 2011

Carnevale in Northern Lazio

How many of my former students at Rome's international schools remember how  mid-winter  doldrums were broken up by "snow week" or "art week"?  
Here in Northern Lazio, formerly the Papal States,  winter is enlivened with Carnevale festivitiesan  important  part of the annual cycle of festivals.  Not only kids, but also adults  need an  excuse to  break down barriers with noisy costume parades, masked balls and general merriment.
Venetian style Carnival masks  seen at  Libreria del Teatro, Viterbo

At Ronciglione, 50 kms. from Rome,  there are several weeks of mid-winter madness where one can  relive the excitement-including riderless horse races-that Charles Dickens described in his 1846 description of the  Roman carnival season. (update for  p. 116  in  my latest book "Etruria".)  

Carnival  parade in Vetralla 


Italy's  best known carnivals include the recently revived  (and expensive!) masked balls of Venice and the famous Viareggio carnival parade with  giant floats  that are the envy of Rio's carnival. 
This year you can  enjoy a Venetian-style  Ballo in Maschera   in the  glamorous mirrored saloni of Palazzo Monaldeschi close to Viterbo  www.monaldeschi.it


  For  60 euro Palazzo Monaldeschi  and Opera Extravaganza  offer  dinner, dance and a lively opera show  that was the high light of a recent visit by international tour operators. 


  Save the date-Saturday, March 5th-and contact Susanna at www.operaextravaganza.com  for  information and bookings. 



Wednesday, February 16, 2011

February-the best time to visit the Vatican Museums


February  20, 2013  Update  Pre-Conclave Weeks in Vatican 

Don't try to enter  Vatican City  in the next few weeks, security has been tightened up.  If you are going to the Pharmacy, be sure you have  a doctor's  prescription...or the Swiss Guards, kindly but firmly ,  will send you away.

My local museum on a  sunny February morning

   February is the best month for visiting  museums in Italy, including one in the "foreign country" known  as Vatican City State.  Vatican has its own money, telephone and postal systems and even license plates like this one  on a vehicle parked at  the new Museum entrance.  
SCV  stands for  Stato Città Vaticano or  as  malignant  Vatican watchers say, "Se Cristo Vedesse", ("If Christ  could only see!").


The sun filled atrium, new Museum entrance. Where are the crowds ?  
   For years I have put off a nostalgic  visit to the Museums due to tourists' tales  of  endless lines at both St. Peter's Basilica (my former "parish") and the  Museums.

 Forums are clogged with  discussions on  the best time of day to attempt a visit and  tour agencies and private guides have  become wealthy selling "skip the lines" tours.
Time  and space to enjoy  the details
  The photos taken during our visit are evidence that Wednesday mornings in January and February  are preferable for a leisurely, in-depth, independent  visit. 
 Most of the visitors to the Vatican  on Wednesdays are taking in the Papal Audience in the hall  on the other side of the tiny country.
Masterpiece  in  the outdoor Sculpture courtyard 
Sistine Chapel without  crowds: Michelangelo's Last Judgement and ceiling 
One can get upclose to the works of art, enjoy the frescoes and statuary. 

Raphael's "School of Athens"  with philosopher  Ipazia of Alexandria
The guards are not hassled  and more lenient with the "one-way"  rules. 
Beyond the spacious atrium where audio guides are available, there are abundant souvenir and book stalls, new coffee shops and a new  Vatican Archives shop with replicas of important historical documents.

 I noticed  letters from Abraham Lincoln, FD Roosevelt and replicas of coins and medals  of emperors, kings and saints. 
Original Papal bull with wax signature seals  concerning Henry VIII's divorce


 Vatican Archives researcher Barbara Frale,  who lives in nearby Orte, found documents explaining the true story of  the  Templar Knights and the resulting special edition  is available here for a mere  6000 euro.


 Replica copies on vellum  of the documents concerning King Henry VIII's  divorce (of the 200 printed, one went to Queen Elizabeth II)  are  now out of print.
 I am proud that the translator of the document used my library to help with her work .



Signposts show the way to many, varied sections of the Vatican Museums
How to avoid cultural indigestion and  Stendhal Syndrome?  My advice is to pinpoint  one or two special places to visit and not try to see everything. 
Don't forget to visit my website for more insider tips. 
                           
                                  

Monday, February 14, 2011

Happy St. Valentine's Day

Valentine's getaway in a Castle 


San Valentino  is one of the patron saints of Viterbo  who was a lst century AD  bishop in  Terni, just across the Tiber in nearby Umbria.
 About  40 years ago, on this day,  I  was able to visit  the catacombs  dedicated  to San  Valentino  along with a group of experts from  the Pontifical Archeological Commission in charge of martyrs.  I remember a spooky, dark catacombs and the fact  that  I was the only young woman  in a group of  elderly, priest types.
  We were there for  a mass said in  honor  of the saint and martyr as if  he had just recently  died.



antique Valentines card



This year San Valentino  sent some magnificent  heart-colored   sunsets  to brighten our  Etruscan sky  and the local bakery  was overflowing  with  heart shaped  torte.



A group  of  about  30-40  international ladies  were present  for the St. Valentine's Coffee Morning  sponsored  by  the   Welcome Neighbor  Club in Olgiata,  an exclusive  residential quarter  on the northern fringe of Rome.

Club organizer,  Paula Treu,  and  I  traded  copies of our new books  which we  then  presented  to club members.   Paula's book "I ragazzi del Monticchio"   tells the story of  a group of adolescents growing up in the Olgiata-Cassia area and is written in Italian.
 My book "Etruria", which  contains  travel and history essays as well as itineraries   to prove  that  "there is civilization beyond Olgiata"  was sold out!
 Grazie  ladies !  It is so important  for a writer  to actually meet  her readers.  Let me know  how you liked  the book.  You  can leave your comments and reviews  here.

Reviews, preface and contents are at  my website.  and  signed copies  can be ordered directly  from me. Just drop me an email  at macryan@alice.it .  Postage to Italian addresses is free.
 Copies   in e-book format  to download on your Kindle  can  be ordered from  my publishers .