Autumn comes to Etruria

Funghi porcini are a local  autumn  speciality 

 Now that it is November the days are definitely  shorter (sunset was 5 p.m. today )  and the crisp autumn air entices many  day trippers from Rome.   Most   out of town  visitors   come to see   the area’s magical castles and  medieval villages, to enjoy concerts and conferences,  to  pick up a supply of the newly harvested   extra virgin  olive  oil the area is  famous for.  Some also come searching for a house in the area.



visitors  after lunch in Ischia di Castro

 Our olive harvest is set for  this week,  but there are many other  happenings too. Here is an idea  of what autumn  is like  here in the Viterbo province, one hour north of the bustling Eternal City.   

ingredients and herbs

To recharge batteries and  relax  aching  muscles after the olive harvest  or a day of mushroom hunting,  the best remedy is to spend  a few hours  soaking in one of  the many hot pools or terme that abound in the area. 

 

huge hot  pool, nearly empty

 I prefer the comforts of  Terme Salus and Terme dei Papi, rather than  roughing it  in one of the rustic  hot  pools in the midst of the fields. 

 

map of the Nature Reserve, Lake di Vico

Other  peaceful  water  activities are available  at the three volcanic  lakes of the area spanning the Rome and Viterbo areas:  Di Vico, Bracciano and  Bolsena.  The   "off season"  has a special appeal   for  birdwatchers, trekkers and photographers .

all to myself.....Riva Fiorita, Lago di Vico

 

Most  seasonal lake side trattorie  close down  by November  but larger ones  and those in nearby  towns  will be open on weekends.

vegetarian  finger food by Bea Calia at Riva Fiorita, Lake di Vico

 

 

The conference hall filling up

Autumn is peak season for  the area's many cultural happenings.   Here are a few photos from last Thursday ‘s  illustrated talk  “I Nostri Castelli..Veri Gioelli”  organized at the Prefecture by Archeotuscia  with the participation of several owners of local castles and historic homes. 

 More photos by Claudia Cavallo on my website.

Before the illustrated talk  with owners of Castello di Proceno

 

 

 

vintage leather chairs with coat of arms of the  Prefettura di Viterbo 

The conference was a perfect fit since  the previous  weekend had been  dedicated to  “Le Giornate  Farnesiane” when several  castles and noble palaces connected to the Farnese  family  were  open  to visitors, some for the very first time. 

Stefano Aluffi Pentini prepares for concert in his castle, Ischia di Castro

 Archeoares  organized a conference  with  the Bishop of Viterbo  and a visit to the  hidden Baroque choir in Viterbo’s  Duomo  on Saturday afternoon. 

the stone wall that cuts the Duomo off from its Baroque choir chapel

There are many more  things to discover in  this area so close to Rome yet still so unknown.

Forget Tuscany and come to explore the area inbetween Rome and Florence with   its   fascinating history, enjoyable itineraries and many activities. 

paintings and frescoes  in the hidden chapel

 If you don’t already have a copy of Etruria Storie e Segreti or the English edition Etruria Travel, History and Itineraries in Central Italy, remember Christmas is coming up soon !   Direct orders  will enjoy  a significant discount (bookshops must charge full cover price of  12 euro) and we  will be happy to sign  and ship  gift copies for you.  

Rome  residents:  we have been invited to present our books at  the Mercato di  Testaccio   on   Wednesday  Nov. 11^th from 11 to noon,  so stop by  to   say “hello” and enjoy a bruschetta with us.  Stay for the  guided visit of the  Monte dei Cocci  at  3 p.m.  

 

Dont forget to visit my website  my award winning website

 

 

 

Forgotten Paintings in Viterbo Exhibit

Along with the Sacred and Profane exhibit visited and described in last week's article, Viterbo  offers another  niche art show-Immagini  della Vergine- which  is a perfect theme  for the Christmas season. A dozen large sized paintings from churches and convents of the Diocese of Viterbo are exhibited together in the majestic  Conclave hall of the ancient Papal Palace in Viterbo.

blue boxes ..

Many of the large  paintings  have been recently restored and  had never been seen  or published before. During the  centuries  since they were commissioned,  most  have been hidden away  in obscure churches and monasteries of the Diocese, known only to the religious  in residence.  

 Among the artists Palma il Giovane, Federico Mozzanti and Antonio Berzettoni.

 My favorite  is the  magnificent  Immacolata with the Dukes of Latera, from the S. Maria della Grazie monastery in the town of  Farnese. Here  angels in diaphanous striped robes and peacock feathered wings create a magical atmosphere  heightened by the  girl in the forefront gazing out at spectators.

 Another delicate  Madonna with child and saints  from church of S. Giovanni Battista  in the town of Grotte di Castro is  exhibited here and published for the first time.

Several other small towns of the Viterbo Diocese (Onano, Latera, Valentano  and Canino) have lent  images of the Virgin  for the exhibit in the Papal Palace  which lasts until February 1^st. 

souls in purgatory 

transport of the holy house

The Bishop’s residence, adjacent to the Papal Palace, loaned  a large, newly restored banner as well as paintings of the Annunciation, the transport of the holy house and the  mystical marriage of Santa Caterina.

the papal loggia  

The show, Immagini della Vergine,  is also a chance to see the inside of the  Palace where the first Papal Conclave was held in the mid 1200s. 

 The architectural details of the palazzo  include primitive stone pavements and a  soaring wooden roof , the original one was removed  “to let in the Holy Spirit” and help  the cardinals decide  who was to become  the next pope. 

Art historian Mari   and archeologist Alberto Pichardo greet visitors

The atmosphere created by the historic building, the modern framing  and  appropriate  music  make the visit, coordinated by  Giannino Tiziani,  a multi-sensorial one.  

Art historians  will enjoy the detailed  catalogue  of the exhibit  published  by Edizioni Archeoares, a branch of Archeoares which is celebrating  its  10^th anniversary as managers of the museum complex  this month. Compliments  go to threesome  Francesco Aliperti, Bruno Blanco and Giampaolo Serone  for their  professionalism and hard work in the past 10 years.  

You will find more information about Viterbo, the Papal Palace complex  and all the Etruria/Tuscia/Viterbese area  on my website .  

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I will be pleased to meet readers at upcoming events: February  20 at the  Vetralla library and  March 19 at the Museo Civico  in Viterbo.  Sign up  to follow the blog and befriend me on  Facebook  to keep in the loop and receive updates . 

Living in a Renaissance Palazzo in Italy: Viterbo

Palazzo Chigi's tower

In central Italy  it is not  so unusual to live  surrounded by affreschi  of Renaissance masters.  The other day we were invited to visit  Serena Filoscia and her uncle Luciano who live in one of Viterbo’s most imposing buildings: Palazzo Chigi.

stairway to piano nobile

 Located in the very center of Viterbo, adjacent to City Hall
 (Palazzo dei Priori), over the ages the austere building has been home to numerous  powerful local families:  Caetani, Chigi , Montoro, Patrizi and  Crescenti.

For the past  few generations   the Egidi family  have called  it home and have done major  restorations, including that of the palazzo’s  tiny  private chapel.

loggia of Palazzo Chigi 

“The roof is so huge that it seems we are always repairing  it”, confided Serena as she greeted us at the front entrance doorway.   She and various other family members   live in apartments located  on the  main floor,  il piano nobile, where the ceilings  rise up  to an enormous height.  

Entering the  portone one catches a glimpse of  a beautiful fresco  by  Antonio del Massaro   (known as Pastura)  hidden behind a car and a dusty  Vespa.

Madonna attributed to Pastura 

 On the upper levels  frescoes greet  visitors at every turn: at the  top of the steep staircase, on the  loggia and throughout the reception rooms.

The windows  of the main salone  face an  imposing stone fireplace and give sunlight to the   numerous plants.  To one side, an  early piano-like instrument  ( un clavicembalo)   awaits  restoration.  

Renaissance  fireplace 

Uncle Luciano leads us into a smaller living room with  silk covered walls and family portraits. In one corner a 1980s  music center  and a piano  show that this was the room the family used for parties. 

A curtain is pulled up with a cord to reveal another room, the family chapel. Luciano shows us the chest of drawers in a niche that serves as sacristry.


 It must have been constructed on site, since it is  too large to have gone through the doorway.

sacristry of the  chapel 

The frescoes of Palazzo Chigi  have been the object of a university  thesis  and I understand why when we are shown a further, smaller  room completely  covered  with frescoes of gods, landscapes and hunting scenes  by Antonio Tempesta. 

At eye level there is a  parrot which gave  the room its name, Stanza del Pappagallo.

How does  this  Renaissance scenario and lifestyle  fit  in with today’s  world ?

 Just a short  walk from the historic  palazzo,  in Piazza S. Maria Nuova, you can visit the shop  GustoSi Senza Glutine where   Serena’s companion  has just opened  the area’s first laboratory  preparing  gluten free bread, pasta, pizza and sweets.  It is located  across  from the  outdoor  pulpit where St. Thomas Aquinas used to preach to the crowds in  the open air, many centuries ago. 

You will find many more stories of life in the Tuscia/Etruria  area in  my books which can be ordered directly from the website. 
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Getting to Know Viterbo

Santa Rosa  sanctuary  and  our group of explorers

After  20 years  here in Etruria  (aka Tuscia Viterbese)  I have learned  a lot about the area, but every day brings new surprises   as I recently learned  during an informative  exploratory  walk  with local  guide Daniela (see her website).

We met in front of the Teatro Unione 

For a couple of hours last  Sunday morning,  together  with a small  group organized  by the Pro Loco,  we rambled the tiny streets of the historic  center  visiting artists’ studios, artisans' workshops and ancient churches. Check  my website for an inside look at  the artisans' workshops. 

Porta Sonza...enter Viterbo and become a free citizen 

Come along  with us and discover  secret corners of  Viterbo that tourists rarely see. 

street of San Pellegrino 

  More articles  about Viterbo   and surroundings can be found  here on my  blog, just  type  Viterbo  into  the search bar  and the links will pop up.  

on Via Mazzini 

outside staircase ( profferlo ) in San Pellegrino 

St. Thomas Aquinas preached from this pulpit 

angels in S. Maria Nuova church 

ending our tour with an aperitivo   in Piazza del Gesù

 Happy St. Patrick's Day to all near and far....please celebrate by trying the Irish Trivia Quiz published  on the blog last week. 

walking the streets of Viterbo