Antiques Show in Viterbo's Papal Palace

outside the Papal Palace 

The  most  historic  part of Viterbo  will be a  lively place  for the next  10 days thanks to the revived antiques show  being held inside the halls of the 12^th century Papal Palace, where  in 1271 the first conclave (cum clave, with the keys) forced the  cardinals gathered  there to elect a new pope after having stalled for 18 months.

I have been reporting on the Viterbo Antiques Fair  since its inception  35 years ago, so yesterday’s inauguration  was  very much a déjà vu experience . 

article from 1981

reporting on Viterbo show, 1983

an elegant table 

Giulio Curti (BIC Lazio) and wife, Felice Orlandini (Polizia di Stato) & Fulvio

When I covered the first Viterbo Antiques show in 1980, we waited on the steps while dealers  finished  setting up their stands and the red carpet was being unrolled. 

last minute preparations

There was some scurrying also yesterday  before the Mayor  arrived  to cut the  ribbon.

 Mayor Michelini cuts the ribbon,with Giorgia  of Archeoares 

The number of exhibitors (43) is about the same as the first editions of the fair and there has been a generational change with many new  names and younger faces.  

Keeping up with modern times the organizers served finger food and drinks and local reporters  concentrated  on snapping pictures of  politicians, the bishop and local VIPs rather than the works of art.

Villa San Michele organized the drinks reception

The show fills three levels of the Papal Palace and is open to the public on weekday afternoons (from 3 p.m.) and all day on Friday, Saturday and Sundays. 

Thus dealers from out of town (the majority) have a chance to  enjoy the local amenities which include  hot thermal pools, Etruscan sites, Renaissance palaces and gardens.

The entrance ticket is also valid for  the Museo Civico  of Viterbo where you can see  masterpieces by Sebastiano del Piombo  and an exhibit on the  Knights Templars.  

1920s-30s ceramics of Raffaello Pernici

Special half-price  tickets (5 instead of 10 euro) are available to my readers  on Friday morning, March  27^th  at 11 am. 
Meeting place, Papal Palace, Viterbo.

portrait of a 17th century violinist of Cremona

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Art Dèco  clock 

For  more on buying antiques,  styles and stories  check the Antiques section of www.elegantetruria.com  
Rated Number 1  by Google for Antiques in Italy 

Forgotten Paintings in Viterbo Exhibit

Along with the Sacred and Profane exhibit visited and described in last week's article, Viterbo  offers another  niche art show-Immagini  della Vergine- which  is a perfect theme  for the Christmas season. A dozen large sized paintings from churches and convents of the Diocese of Viterbo are exhibited together in the majestic  Conclave hall of the ancient Papal Palace in Viterbo.

blue boxes ..

Many of the large  paintings  have been recently restored and  had never been seen  or published before. During the  centuries  since they were commissioned,  most  have been hidden away  in obscure churches and monasteries of the Diocese, known only to the religious  in residence.  

 Among the artists Palma il Giovane, Federico Mozzanti and Antonio Berzettoni.

 My favorite  is the  magnificent  Immacolata with the Dukes of Latera, from the S. Maria della Grazie monastery in the town of  Farnese. Here  angels in diaphanous striped robes and peacock feathered wings create a magical atmosphere  heightened by the  girl in the forefront gazing out at spectators.

 Another delicate  Madonna with child and saints  from church of S. Giovanni Battista  in the town of Grotte di Castro is  exhibited here and published for the first time.

Several other small towns of the Viterbo Diocese (Onano, Latera, Valentano  and Canino) have lent  images of the Virgin  for the exhibit in the Papal Palace  which lasts until February 1^st. 

souls in purgatory 

transport of the holy house

The Bishop’s residence, adjacent to the Papal Palace, loaned  a large, newly restored banner as well as paintings of the Annunciation, the transport of the holy house and the  mystical marriage of Santa Caterina.

the papal loggia  

The show, Immagini della Vergine,  is also a chance to see the inside of the  Palace where the first Papal Conclave was held in the mid 1200s. 

 The architectural details of the palazzo  include primitive stone pavements and a  soaring wooden roof , the original one was removed  “to let in the Holy Spirit” and help  the cardinals decide  who was to become  the next pope. 

Art historian Mari   and archeologist Alberto Pichardo greet visitors

The atmosphere created by the historic building, the modern framing  and  appropriate  music  make the visit, coordinated by  Giannino Tiziani,  a multi-sensorial one.  

Art historians  will enjoy the detailed  catalogue  of the exhibit  published  by Edizioni Archeoares, a branch of Archeoares which is celebrating  its  10^th anniversary as managers of the museum complex  this month. Compliments  go to threesome  Francesco Aliperti, Bruno Blanco and Giampaolo Serone  for their  professionalism and hard work in the past 10 years.  

You will find more information about Viterbo, the Papal Palace complex  and all the Etruria/Tuscia/Viterbese area  on my website .  

Try the search  button at the top of the blog page too.

Please share with your friends using the Twitter and Facebook icons below and of course your  comments are always much  appreciated.

I will be pleased to meet readers at upcoming events: February  20 at the  Vetralla library and  March 19 at the Museo Civico  in Viterbo.  Sign up  to follow the blog and befriend me on  Facebook  to keep in the loop and receive updates . 

Hunting for Antiques in Viterbo

Antiques  are for Poor People – Part Two, Itinerary in Viterbo

Only 14 kms further along the Via Cassia from Vetralla (see Part One)  brings the antiques hunter  to Viterbo.  Along the road there are a couple of  rigattiere / junk yards  brimming  with iron, metal and stone salvage objects.  

old radio 

one of the fireplaces purchased from Ginevra Poleggi

The best salvage place, the source for interior decorators and  architects, is that of  Ginevra Poleggi,  located off the Via Cassia at Ponte dei Cetti. (for information simona.spazzolini@gmail.com )   Ginevra's place was where I found the antique tiles,  fireplaces and stone sinks for my restoration project.  

Arriving to Viterbo's Porta Romana take a left and park  in the lot located beside the medieval walls or continue further  along to the free lot next to  Porta San Pietro. You may want to give  a tip to the self appointed guardian. 

antique bedstead becomes plant holder  

Porta San Pietro is where you  want to enter for just inside, on the way towards  San Pellegrino, Europe’s best preserved medieval quarter, is the tiny restoration laboratory  Restauro San Pietro.   

cassapanca awaiting restoraton 

 Daniela and Michele  moved to Viterbo to get away from the chaos of big city Rome and settled in this street resembling the  antiques area around Campo dei Fiori-fifty years ago. 

mirror reflections 

Michele worked for the  Cultural Ministry and  participated in the restoration of the huge doors of Castle Sant’Angelo in Rome.

 Daniela  sources  1950s American  jewelry and knick-knacks which she sells at  fairs throughout central Italy.

tools of the trade 

father and son 

They have carved out a homey corner complete with back garden filled with quirky old garden furniture and plants. 

Prices  are flexible, depending on whether the objects have been restored or not.

Baby Santiago  has a  mini workbench   alongside that of his dad and the shop doubles  as information point for tourists in the summer. 
For information and prices contact sanpietrorestauro@gmail.com 

a magnificent pair of bronze  battocchi 

Marilyn looks down on a davenport desk and night stand 

Leaving their shop, continue into the heart of San Pellegrino quarter where you will find the Museum of Saint Rosa’s Porters. Here the traditions of Viterbo come alive with films and models of previous Macchine. 

 The bookshop carries souvenirs and books, including those I have written about the area, published with Archeoares, who also manage the Museums and  the Papal Palace where the first Papal Conclave was held in the 13th century.

models of previous Macchine 

bookshop in the  Santa Rosa Porters Museum 

Maestro Paternesi at Palazzo degli Alessandri 

  The most theatrical piazza  of  Viterbo's San Pellegrino quarter is located here…and if you are lucky  there will be an exhibit  in Palazzo degli Alessandri.  
Interested in Italian antiques? You will find lots of information on my website's  Antiques pages.
Have you been to San Pellegrino quarter in Viterbo?  If you would like more information or other itineraries, leave a comment below and share with friends (Facebook, Twitter icons).  What other antiques dealers can you recommend in the area ? 
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