Bramante's Papal Stables in Viterbo

precarious column 

 very few people  are aware of a hidden masterpiece of the Renaissance architect located in the center of Viterbo. 

As a resident here  for  the past 20 years I was surprised  to discover the existence of this gem designed and built by architect  Bramante   between  1506-1510. 

smack in the city center but hidden from view 

The magnificent  stables  hidden  in  piazza Sallupara were  commissioned by  Pope Julius II   to house about  100 horses of the papal entourage.

the main hall of the Papal Stables 

 And they were kept in style, in a  majestic  hall  with vaulted ceilings   lined with  24  pillars.

The building’s existence was unknown  not only to me, but to most of the townspeople eventhough it is  close to the historic center and  the Albornoz fortress , seat of  the local  Etruscan museum. 

Pro Loco  opened the Bramante stables for the first time 

Thanks to the new  Pro Loco  of Viterbo  the site was opened and   guided visits  were given to illustrate this, one  of city’s  least known  sites.

Viterbo's  well known  Fontana Grande 

The building has been used diversely  over the centuries: for storage, as a tobacco barn  and then  in  1822  it became  the city prison. 

During World War II it was one of the many buildings of Viterbo  to be destroyed by Allied bombs and since then it has been an  eyesore of the historic center.  

 Unexploded bombs  were recuperated from the site even  last  January. 

Now it is  finally being  restored  with money made available by a local bank and the Lazio Region and will eventually become a civic  and cultural center.  

stones and columns  lined up 

Pro loco  members Davide, Michele and friend 

Here is an article in Italian about  the  papal stables http://www.bibliotecaviterbo.it/rivista/1990_1-2/Buchicchio.pdf

Have you visited Viterbo?  What is your favorite place in the area?  Leave a comment  in Italian or English and share with friends by clicking on the Facebook or Twitter icons  just below. 

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For other information about the Viterbo and Northern Lazio area see my website.

Bomarzo's Sacro Bosco

Have you visited  the town of Bomarzo...or only the Park? 

  

     For centuries  scholars have tried to understand  the meaning behind the esoteric sculptures of the  16^th century park  created by Vicino Orsini  in the valley below his palazzo in the tiny town of Bomarzo.  Perhaps  the  secret code of the Sacro Bosco  has finally been broken.

Orsini's Sacro Bosco, also known as the Park of Monsters,   has a new interpretation thanks to  Antonio Rocca whose study  Bomarzo Ermetica  was presented on Saturday in the magnificent  salone of Palazzo Orsini castle of Bomarzo.

above our heads -frescoed ceilings 

surprised  to see the floor tiles are just like mine 

 Among those present, local politicians, foreign professors and a large number of young people interested in the history and art of the area.

left to right: Mayor Roberto Furano, Sofia Varoli Piazza, Irene Temperini 

During the conference  landscape architect and historian  Sofia Varoli Piazza  explained  the connection  between landscape and historic gardens in the Tuscia area, others expounded on the  economic value of beauty and  how to promote  and protect sites such as the Sacro Bosco.

symbols or Vicino Orsini on the palazzo facade 

Off limits areas of  the palazzo-now the City Hall- were opened  allowing us to view the private  terrace with mottos by Orsini.  

Here  are a few of the inscriptions telling Orsini's  philosophy.

   

SPERNE TERRENA POST MORTEM VERA VOLUPTAS 

SAPIENS DOMINABITUR ASTRIS 

FATO PRUDENTIA MINOR 

Symbols of the Orsini and Farnese families-the bear, the rose and the lily-can be seen throughout the palazzo and the town. 

Orsini bear and Farnese  lily  by Claudio Magagnini

The park  was created  by Vicino Orsini  to honor his wife Giulia Farnese, to express his philosophy and  to amaze and out-do  his  contemporaries who created their Renaissance gardens  in other towns of the Tuscia-Viterbo area also  known as Etruria. 

the Sacro Bosco  lies in the valley below the palazzo

At the palazzo complexes  of  his contemporaries (Marescotti Ruspoli in Vignanello,  Lante della Rovere in Bagnaia and Farnese in Caprarola) the gardens are all adjacent to the buildings,  but at   Bomarzo  the park  is quite a distance away since the palazzo is built atop the steep hill. 

    The two sites complement one another: without the palazzo, the park, now owned by the Bettini family,  is incomplete and vice versa.

from this terrace, Vicino Orsini looked down to  his  Sacro Bosco

Over the centuries  the  roads that linked the Sacro Bosco to the palazzo on the hill  have been destroyed but hopefully they can be newly joined. If the administration can solve the parking problem with a shuttle bus many of the thousands of  tourists who come the park each year could also enjoy  the rarely seen historic center and the palazzo. 

 As usually happens in Italy, the conference ended with a buffet. It was  served  in the entrance hall of the palazzo,  overflowing into the piazza . 

 

The author and friends improvise  a table in the piazza

After  the buffet  and some exploring in the old medieval center, Antonio Rocca  accompanied  those present  to the Sacro Bosco for an  in depth, on site explanation.    Have you been to the town of Bomarzo?  to the Sacro Bosco?    

Your comments, questions, reactions  are welcome.  You can leave comments (lasciare commenti, anche in italiano  qui sotto) Then  click anonymous in the window that opens...or with your name and/or website. 

Getting to Know Viterbo

Santa Rosa  sanctuary  and  our group of explorers

After  20 years  here in Etruria  (aka Tuscia Viterbese)  I have learned  a lot about the area, but every day brings new surprises   as I recently learned  during an informative  exploratory  walk  with local  guide Daniela (see her website).

We met in front of the Teatro Unione 

For a couple of hours last  Sunday morning,  together  with a small  group organized  by the Pro Loco,  we rambled the tiny streets of the historic  center  visiting artists’ studios, artisans' workshops and ancient churches. Check  my website for an inside look at  the artisans' workshops. 

Porta Sonza...enter Viterbo and become a free citizen 

Come along  with us and discover  secret corners of  Viterbo that tourists rarely see. 

street of San Pellegrino 

  More articles  about Viterbo   and surroundings can be found  here on my  blog, just  type  Viterbo  into  the search bar  and the links will pop up.  

on Via Mazzini 

outside staircase ( profferlo ) in San Pellegrino 

St. Thomas Aquinas preached from this pulpit 

angels in S. Maria Nuova church 

ending our tour with an aperitivo   in Piazza del Gesù

 Happy St. Patrick's Day to all near and far....please celebrate by trying the Irish Trivia Quiz published  on the blog last week. 

walking the streets of Viterbo