Showing posts with label home visits. Show all posts
Showing posts with label home visits. Show all posts

Sunday, February 3, 2013

Lunch at Ruspoli Castle



Ruspoli Castle seen from the gardens






still life  at the castle kitchen 

corridor to the castle chapel 
   
The town of Vignanello  was in full festival mode  this week for the beginning of  Carnival coincided  with  the feast days of two local saints, Santa Giacinta Marescotti and San Biagio.


the Duomo of Vignanello faces the Castello 
Giada holds her copy of my
latest book  
plan of the castle's  Renaissance gardens 


warming up by the fireplace

Family coat of arms and portraits  in main salone

Ruspoli ancestors tower over Fulvio 
 We were guests of Donna Giada Ruspoli for lunch at her family  Castello, which dominates the town of Vignanello, sharing the main piazza  with the Duomo.

with Donna Giada Ruspoli 
 Arriving to the piazza the noise level increased as we struggled against  the icy winds that channeled down the narrow main street: besides the celebratory fireworks that reverberated off the  Duomo and castle walls the  town  band was  playing and the traffic  in the tiny piazza worked itself into gridlock.
family portraits  and candles 



crossing the moat 
One must cross the moat to enter the castle’s  massive entrance  doors and once inside  the  guests  enjoyed bruschette and aperitivi in the warm glow of portable heaters. 
Elisa and Claudio Fochetti, Fulvio and Elizabeth 
Elizabeth  with Santino, the castle's gardener extrordinaire 

Some hardy guests   braved the cold to cross a further  moat  which connects the castle with its famous  Renaissance gardens.  
the Renaissance gardens 
three young guests in the castle 's main salone 

Many of those invited  were specialists in antique music  who had come  up from Rome for the day. Others hailed from places further away: Portugal, Oxford and  Brazil.

guests enjoyed lunch and desserts...
...around the tables and  the fireplace
Lunch was served in two living rooms on the piano nobile  and guests served themselves at a buffet table  in the main  room decorated with  family portraits and with the best views over the garden.   

Donna Giada and Signor Fochetti
Chiara Pelliccia,  Giorgio Monari, Francesco Maria Ruspoli and Donna Giada Ruspoli 
Following lunch  Dr. Chiara Pelliccia winner of  the Prince Francesco Maria Ruspoli international prize for music studies   spoke about  her research on  the cantata da camera of 17th century musician, Giovanni Lorenzo Lutier  and  Dr.Giorgio Monari presented the “Miscellanea Ruspoli” studies in Baroque music .
Your comments (commenti anche in italiano o portoghese sono benvenuti )  are welcome.  

Sunday, June 10, 2012

Civitavecchia-Rome: the scenic inland route



aqueduct on the  scenic inland route 
Which  Italy would you rather  experience: the crowded highway  through Rome’s  outlying suburbs and factories or a leisurely  drive  through green hills, past aqueducts and Etruscan tombs, with stops in medieval hill towns to see how people live here in central Italy?



a local traffic jam


 This is the dilemma faced by some of the 2 million cruise passengers docking  annually at Civitavecchia who request information on travel  forums :

 “What is the best way to get  from Civitavecchia  port to  Rome?”  or, vice versa, from Rome to  the embarkation dock.


As a resident travel writer and consultant, I have treated the question before   and now that summer  is again fast approaching,  I want to remind  cruisers  of  an alternative route  between Rome and Civitavecchia, one that helps beat the summer heat.


Tarquinia's towers -just 10 minutes from the dock of Civitavecchia



S. Maria in Castello, Tarquinia


entrance to Duomo Museum, Viterbo

 
dolphin fountain,  Vetralla
  During the dozens of cruises and port excursions enjoyed as cruise lecturer in the past 6  12 years  I've noticed  that the highlight for most people is being  treated to a slice of real local living.

 You can only take so many organized tours, museums and archeological sites. 
To really understand a locale and a civilization, you must discover the markets, the homes, the local lore and food.

  Here in central Italy many cruises begin and end at my home port, Civitavecchia, one hour north of Rome.

The ships usually arrive in port very early  in the day and  departures are set for  afternoon, so  it makes sense to use the  arrival/departure day for leisurely exploring, gaining those important experiences of real  Italian life. This can be done by  taking  the inland route instead of the  highway to Rome.



Antonella, local Italian guide in Viterbo   
It only takes a  bit of planning to arrange for a private  driver or a rental  car   to take the scenic inland route passing  through the hill town of Tarquinia, a UNESCO world heritage site.

 From there, continue along Via Aurelia bis over the rolling green hills to Vetralla, a compact historical center which has been under the protection of the English crown since the days of Henry VIII.

Ruud and visitors at  Bomarzo's Sacro Bosco



Mercatello, before the bridge to Civita, the dying city

 Retirement-aged cruisers save money by renting a van with driver  to explore the inland scenic route from Civitavecchia to Rome. By avoiding  the highway, big cities and big city prices they also  get a chance to  see daily life. 
Bags safely stowed in the van, the passengers  can stroll through our  town on market day, visiting the shops, chatting with local people and  
at the market: local artichokes  

 ordering a slice of pizza  at the forno. 

Meet the locals:  Adriana cares for the flowers of her piazza, Vetralla

Ruud  shows visitors Tuscania 

Multi-lingual guide Ruud likes to show visitors  his hometown and how we live here. 
 Italy is not just about monuments, art and archeology....as those who take the scenic inland route discover.
enjoying gelato and espresso


What could be better than sharing food, conversation and visiting the homes, gardens and castles of the people who live here? 


leisurely lunch in a private garden .....
.......or on the terrace   

Drop me a line or leave a comment if you wish to join  the long list of  universities, tour operators,  travel agents and cruise lines who have benefitted from our  local, on site  expertise.   


More information about the area  can be found in my books "Etruria Travel, History and Itineraries in Central Italy"  and 
"Etruria Storie e Segreti". Order directly  from the website  and pay with paypal.