Mysterious Museum Graffiti

Museum courtyard. the  graffiti are located on the upper loggia 

During a recent visit to the newly reopened  Civic Museum in Viterbo a series of  graffiti  caught my attention:  they include  designs and phrases scratched into the plaster  by a prisoner, one Nicolo, son of Francesco Bartoli, from the  town of Barchi, near  Fano in  the Marche.   

Etruscan heads welcome visitors to the Museo Civico 

 When the outside wall enclosing the  cloister’s upper level  was removed and the roof level raised sometime in the past  200 years, these graffiti were re-discovered but the area was closed off to the public until the most recent update a few months ago. 

See the photos of my recent presentation at the Museum. 

Etruscan sarcophaghi and bucchero ware 

The convent and adjoining church S. Maria della Verità have undergone many changes over the centuries: they were damaged  during the bombings of  World War II, and only a  short time ago, the Museum was closed down for  several years when a section of the ancient walls collapsed on to the street. 

Finding  graffiti in old Italian prisons is common,  for  the incarcerated had nothing  to do to  pass the  time and used the walls of their cells as a  canvas or diary.  Visitors to  the Doge’s Palace in Venice and  Castel Sant’Angelo in Rome can visit  graffiti filled cells and even my small city of  Vetralla counts  scores of graffiti  in abandoned churches, historic sites and the building used as a prison, many of which have been  studied by local paleographer, Carlo Tedeschi.

Viterbo’s  Museo Civico  graffiti are particularly interesting for the astronomical scenes depicting the  planets:  the moon is in the center and  Mars, Mercury and Saturn in outer circles. There are  Biblical scenes of  David with  his sling,  sheep and holding Goliath’s head in a bag. There are other probable  religious scenes  too:  an Annunciation with  a bird (Holy Spirit)  hovering over the  Madonna.  

the Museum's explanation of the graffiti 

Davidd (sic)  holding head of Goliath ? 

While awaiting further research on the graffiti, we can only wonder what crime the  young  Nicolo committed to  be imprisoned in Viterbo and why he created this fanciful  world  full of strange characters  such as the  enthroned  figure in baggy bloomers  (King/Pope?) flanked by angels.

Your clues, transcriptions and suggestions are welcome. Please share with friends who  work in this sector. 

a smaller piece of plaster  contains further designs and text

part of text
Visit  the Museum's website  here.

More stories and  information about
  central Italy on  my website  
For books about the  area and its history.

  

The Graffiti Plague

Cosmatesque pavement, San Francesco,Vetralla 

Ever since  men began to scribble, design  and write  there have been graffiti. We see them in Pompeii  as well as on trains and public buildings around the world.  In some cases and  places  graffiti  have risen to the level of “street art”. 

Art or vandalism,  I doubt any one  enjoys riding in a train or subway where the windows have been completely sprayed over.

In Viterbo the walls of Santa Rosa  high school, frequented  mainly  by  girls,  had been the target for  teenage boys who continuously covered the walls with phrases, hearts and other graffiti,  hoping to impress  the girls.  

A strategy invented  by an intelligent city council member  has slowed down the graffiti problem... and almost wiped it out. 

The girls were asked   to invent poetic phrases  to discourage  their  "suitors" from scribbling and spraying on the walls.  It seems to have worked, yet unfortunately  the historic  convent facing the school building remains  disfigured.

The magnificent church of San Francesco here in Vetralla   was  a  recent victim  of the graffiti plague. On the day the Mille Miglie  bicycle race  passed  through town last spring, someone had the stupid idea of using a  can of bright green paint  on the church’s  ancient walls to wish  happy birthday to a  Rumanian fellow who lives across the street.

San Francesco is a jewel of a church dating from the 12^th century with the  largest Franciscan  fresco cycle outside of Assisi  adorning its interior walls, Cosmatesque pavements and  a crypt dating back to 8^th century. 

the interior of the church is completely frescoed , life of St. Frances, after F. Villamena 

Set in its walls and around the  front portal are marble columns and decorative bits  recycled from the nearby Roman site of Forum Cassii.

Here are a few photos taken while waiting for  a wedding   (Chiara and Luigi)  to begin at San Francesco. 

The  magical atmosphere created by the soft light, the  ancient frescoes and Cosmatesque marble floors is almost palpable.

Sant'Orsola and maidens, fresco attributed to  Il Vecchietta, 15th century

family and guests await the bride

Singer Susanna  and Don Luigi  waiting for the wedding to begin

  An bi-lingual  poster  is being readied and will soon be mounted on the exterior wall of the church.  It will give  an explanation of the church’s  history and art to visitors and passersby.  

If the graffiti  has not been removed  by then I propose  to  hide  it with this placard.

13th century funerary monument of Briobris by Paolo Romano

Hopefully through, education, emulation and by ostracizing these   modern day  barbarians who use  graffiti   to express themselves, the plague can be defeated. 

Do you know of other techniques used to combat  graffiti, perhaps in your town? We are eager  for your  insight and comments.