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painting by Monica Ferrando |
Among those
who rediscovered the Etruscan sites in central Italy and publicized them with
their books were Scots and
English including Lady Elizabeth Hamilton Gray and George Dennis, accompanied by artist S.J. Ainsley whose drawings show the tombs as they once were.
Jules Martha’s L’Arte Etrusque published in
Paris in 1889 has color plates
depicting the magnificent art, coins, jewellery, mirrors and bronzes of the Etruscan civilization that were coming to light.
D.H. Lawrence lived for some time in Tarquinia and his Etruscan Places published in 1929, captures some of the mystery of this little
known civilization.
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Norchia rock hewn tombs - photo by John Ferro Sims |
In order to
recapture the emotions of those pioneer days, I suggest a visit to Norchia or Grotta Porcina near Vetralla or Castel
d’Asso outside Viterbo.
Early spring is the best time for these Indiana Jones type of explorations, for
the grass will not be high and snakes
will still be hibernating.
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Vetralla panorma from the south |
Take a walk
in the countryside to visit the newly discovered site of Demetra’s sanctuary known as Bagno Sacro, sacred bath.
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design of Demetra sanctuary |
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the entrance to Demetra's sanctuary near Vetralla |
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riding along an Etruscan via cava |
Here a
metre high terracotta statue of the goddess was recently found at the end of a
track similar to other vie cave paths carved in the tufa stone throughout the area.
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statue of Demetra, now in storage at Museo Etrusco, Viterbo |
In her
delicate, dreamy pastels, local artist Monica Ferrando perfectly interprets the Etruscan love for nature and the story of Demetra. More of Monica's work can be seen here and on her new website.
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Monica Ferrando, photo by Corinna Cuniberto |
When not traveling between
Venice and Rome or sketching at the Louvre, she pours out her love for the
area working in her south-facing Vetralla studio set in a luxuriant garden.
On March 8th there is free entrance to the Necropolis and Museo Etrusco in Tarquinia for women, just another reminder that theirs was a matriarchial society and Etruscan women were more liberated than their Roman neighbors.
On March 8th there is free entrance to the Necropolis and Museo Etrusco in Tarquinia for women, just another reminder that theirs was a matriarchial society and Etruscan women were more liberated than their Roman neighbors.