Anagni: Papal town south of Rome

Entrance to Anagni: Porta Santa Maria 

Rome’s Vatican City, Viterbo and Anagni  are the three Italian cities where popes have lived over the centuries.  Anagni  is the least known, least visited, but worthwhile  for its rustic charm, historic palazzi and  monuments.

Although I have lived in Italy for  50 years, it was only  last week that I had a chance to visit  Anagni thanks to a trip organized  by the Viterbo archeology club where I often lecture-ArcheoTuscia.  

Apse and Chapel dedicated to  St. Thomas Becket  

The main attraction for the group of Viterbesi was to compare their city with Anagni and to have a "gita" (day out) which included a nice lunch.

high noon at Anagni's Cathedral 

  My reason  was to finally see Anagni's  Cathedral with the 12th century frescoed crypt of San Magno which art historians consider  the  Sistine Chapel of the Middle Ages.

The frescoes are filled with symbolism  and could be studied  in detail for  several hours. But that does not happen  for visits are monitored for all groups, large or small.. 

entrance  to the lower level crypt 

Each person  pays  a  4 euro entrance fee  to  clamber down the dangerously steep stairway and  enter the crypt. 

bell tower shadow on the Duomo facade

While the  guide  explained the significance of  the mysterious  frescoes  and visitors jostled to get a look, we  kept  an eye on the time for  after 10 minutes  the lights are  automatically  switched  off.

Comatesque floors in upper part of Duomo 

Like the Sistine Chapel in Vatican,  it is forbidden to take photos and videos, so a voice shouting “No Foto!”  punctuated the visit. 

Here is a scan of the crypt's layout  which shows  how complicated 

the fresco cycles are. 

How does Anagni  compare with our nearby papal town of Viterbo? 

bookshop at Anagni 

Viterbo’s Papal Palace complex has  a well stocked bookshop and souvenir stands  bursting with  books and guides while the only  printed material  on the crypt is a poorly translated 40 page pamphlet priced at an  exorbitant  7 euro.

Pope Boniface VIII statue

 profferlo stairway, similar to those in Viterbo

"herding cats" 

Anagni countryside  

a picturesque  corner

 The medieval quarter of Viterbo  is pedestrians only while a  stroll through Anagni means dodging  traffic and  is best done with a local guide who can  explain  the town’s complicated history and lead you to the most picturesque corners.

our guide Luca with wife Antonella  

Our guide Luca Di Cocco  did an admirable job and chose  an excellent  Agriturismo  for  lunch in a country setting. 

  

lunch at Agriturismo  San Isidoro