Fighting
off the commercialism  of Christmas is
easy  in small town Italy where the buzz
words have always been  handmade, local
and  thrifty. 
We are mailing out signed copies of our books  daily  to be sure they arrive in time for the holidays. You can save on postage costs to USA by  ordering  a copy of Etruria-travel, history and itineraries  together with a copy of Olio e Ricordi in Cucina.  Order directly through my website.  
 
Here in the
hill towns of Etruria,  an hour north of
Rome along the Via Cassia,  the
atmosphere is light years away from the
frenzy of  commercial malls and big city
mega stories. 
With the
olive harvest just finished, these first weeks of  December 
are dedicated  to celebrating the new
 extra virgin olive oil. 
In restaurants
and homes, bruschetta doused with the
new oil is offered and  in former churches,
cantinas, piazzas and tiny artisans’ workshops 
there are  markets and exhibits of
 objects created by local artisans.  
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| Anna Meloni crafts  macrame jewlery | 
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| elegant pieces  by Marisa | 
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| Diana Biscaioli 's  designer objects in felt | 
In the past
24 hours we visited the first of 
these  artisans’ shows. As Christmas nears several others will be happening on weekends  in Viterbo
and surrounding towns. 
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| diarte.wordpress.com   felt vase covers | 
 If you know of other Christmas fairs and artisans'  exhibits 
in  other  parts of Italy, please tell us about them in a  comment at the end of this article. 
Yesterday
we drove to the next town,Capranica, just as the Christmas lights were being  turned on, creating  a holiday atmosphere for  the craft show in the ancient church of San
Francesco. 
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| view of Capranica  historic center | 
Overlooked  by the 15th
century double Anguillara funerary monument, were  tables  full
of   locally produced crafts in wool,  felt, ceramic, wood and sculpted  stone.
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| Anguillara  double funerary monument | 
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| elegant  cradle and table | 
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| Daniela Andreotti's ceramics | 
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| Roberto Ceccarini of Artepetra | 
The
excellent prices are a further  benefit
of buying locally and directly from the artisans themselves. 
With little or no
overhead, the crafts people can offer hand painted
cushions at 10-20 euro, ceramics and
paintings at 5 to 20
euro, hand fashioned jewelery  and key chains  starting from  5 euros.   
Besides  olive oil, the area is also famous  for 
hazelnuts and derived products, samples of which were offered  at the stands of    local farmers' cooperatives.   Christmas
baskets  of  gourmet food  
are an intelligent gift to suit anyone on your gift list.
|  | 
| hard to find apples | 
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| From Caprarola, crafts and edibles | 
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| crafted leather  earrings and pendants | 
|  | 
| fashion accessories by Laura | 
Antiques  and vintage objects  are  often
 found in these pre-Christmas  markets.
 I found a vintage straw-work box from Russia (10 
euro) to add to my collection of boxes. 
|  | 
| Fiorella  came from Canino  with antique boxes  and knick knacks | 
Copper, glass and  other 
knick knacks  as well as  decorated furniture, vintage clothing, bags,
books and jewelery beckon  from various
shop fronts along the main street of Vetralla. Next weekend (Dec 8-9)  the fair  will be repeated. 
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| Daniela Carnevali's floral compositions | 
|  | 
| Cristina's vintage  clothing 
 
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There are always surprises during these weekend festivals: a group of parents had set up a bake sale  in the town hall to benefit their kids'  school. We happily purchased a crostata, biscotti and  cakes  wrapped in cellophane. 
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| Piazza S. Egidio, Vetralla | 
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| 
 
Copper  pieces, La Fenice of Fiorella Tassoni 
 
 
 
|  |  | Simona & Simona crafting Christmas ornaments |  
 
Another  unexpected  vision was this vintage fridge topped by an antique map of New England.  
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What better way to  keep warm than hand knitted wool and mohair  caps, gloves and  scarves like these found next to   wood and ceramic crafts made by members of the same family.  
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| Iria's wool caps | 
|  | 
| wooden owls | 
  
 
Thanks for the tips, good article and ideas.
ReplyDeleteGreat ideas. Thanks.
ReplyDeleteLovely post with some great gift ideas.
ReplyDeleteThanks Pete, Paolo and Anon. for your comments. Awaiting some input from readers about Christmas artisans' fairs in this and other parts of Italy.
ReplyDeleteWonderful that you are publicizing the artisans. I always love the big Rocca Paolina Christmas fair in Perugia.
ReplyDeleteThis looks like so much fun. I love poking around the little towns like Caprarola and Capranica and picking through markets (before a good lunch). Was in Caprarola last spring but now it seems long ago.
ReplyDeleteI posted a story about the day on my blog: http://aLittleLightExercise.blogspot.com
Thanks Elizabeth ..when is the Perugia Christmas Fair?
ReplyDeleteThank you Judith, loved your post on Caprarola.
ReplyDeleteA lovely post MaryJane. :)
ReplyDeleteFabulous post. Just wish we were there to take advantage of it.
ReplyDeleteHi Mary Jane, I've written about a few other Christmas markets and artisanal fairs in Lazio on my blog here: http://www.lazioexplorer.com/2012/12/christmas-fun-in-lazio-markets-fairs.html
ReplyDeleteAlways good to spread the word about these things :)
Very interesting post Mary Jane. Bitter oranges are called Seville oranges in England too, although the ones in your photographs aren't the same as the ones I know that have a lot of pith and thick peel for making traditional English marmelade. They have hardly any actual fruit, just lots of pips. I'll try your recipe for oranges on bruschetta, it sound delicious. Christina
ReplyDelete