Sunday, November 1, 2015

Autumn comes to Etruria

Funghi porcini are a local  autumn  speciality 

 Now that it is November the days are definitely  shorter (sunset was 5 p.m. today )  and the crisp autumn air entices many  day trippers from Rome.   Most   out of town  visitors   come to see   the area’s magical castles and  medieval villages, to enjoy concerts and conferences,  to  pick up a supply of the newly harvested   extra virgin  olive  oil the area is  famous for.  Some also come searching for a house in the area.

visitors  after lunch in Ischia di Castro
 Our olive harvest is set for  this week,  but there are many other  happenings too. Here is an idea  of what autumn  is like  here in the Viterbo province, one hour north of the bustling Eternal City.   
ingredients and herbs

To recharge batteries and  relax  aching  muscles after the olive harvest  or a day of mushroom hunting,  the best remedy is to spend  a few hours  soaking in one of  the many hot pools or terme that abound in the area. 
huge hot  pool, nearly empty
 I prefer the comforts of  Terme Salus and Terme dei Papi, rather than  roughing it  in one of the rustic  hot  pools in the midst of the fields. 
map of the Nature Reserve, Lake di Vico

Other  peaceful  water  activities are available  at the three volcanic  lakes of the area spanning the Rome and Viterbo areas:  Di Vico, Bracciano and  Bolsena.  The   "off season"  has a special appeal   for  birdwatchers, trekkers and photographers .
all to myself.....Riva Fiorita, Lago di Vico
Most  seasonal lake side trattorie  close down  by November  but larger ones  and those in nearby  towns  will be open on weekends.
vegetarian  finger food by Bea Calia at Riva Fiorita, Lake di Vico
The conference hall filling up
Autumn is peak season for  the area's many cultural happenings.   Here are a few photos from last Thursday ‘s  illustrated talk  “I Nostri Castelli..Veri Gioelli”  organized at the Prefecture by Archeotuscia  with the participation of several owners of local castles and historic homes. 
 More photos by Claudia Cavallo on my website.
Before the illustrated talk  with owners of Castello di Proceno
vintage leather chairs with coat of arms of the  Prefettura di Viterbo 

The conference was a perfect fit since  the previous  weekend had been  dedicated to  “Le Giornate  Farnesiane” when several  castles and noble palaces connected to the Farnese  family  were  open  to visitors, some for the very first time. 

Stefano Aluffi Pentini prepares for concert in his castle, Ischia di Castro
 Archeoares  organized a conference  with  the Bishop of Viterbo  and a visit to the  hidden Baroque choir in Viterbo’s  Duomo  on Saturday afternoon. 

the stone wall that cuts the Duomo off from its Baroque choir chapel
There are many more  things to discover in  this area so close to Rome yet still so unknown.
Forget Tuscany and come to explore the area inbetween Rome and Florence with   its   fascinating history, enjoyable itineraries and many activities. 

paintings and frescoes  in the hidden chapel
 If you don’t already have a copy of Etruria Storie e Segreti or the English edition Etruria Travel, History and Itineraries in Central Italy, remember Christmas is coming up soon !   Direct orders  will enjoy  a significant discount (bookshops must charge full cover price of  12 euro) and we  will be happy to sign  and ship  gift copies for you.  

Rome  residents:  we have been invited to present our books at  the Mercato di  Testaccio   on   Wednesday  Nov. 11th from 11 to noon,  so stop by  to   say “hello” and enjoy a bruschetta with us.  Stay for the  guided visit of the  Monte dei Cocci  at  3 p.m.  

Dont forget to visit my website  my award winning website




1 comment:

  1. Thank you very much for sharing your experience and photos of this beautiful place. Italy is a world wonder.