Saturday, March 8, 2014

All in the Family: Florence's Oldest (and best) restaurants

unpretentious vintage doorway 

 Wondering where cookbook authors  go to eat when they are not cooking  at home ? 

at Palazzo Pitti, Florence 
We have just returned from a two night stay in Florence, where we were able to fit in  a few meals at  my  favorite family restaurant   Cafaggi, run by successive generations of the same family for  over  92 years.

father of  present owner in vintage poster

1960s coat hooks 
 The magic ingredients  that make us return every time include the   traditional décor and menu, consistently excellent food  and  good value but most of all  the family itself.

main dining room crowded with happy diners 
 What a pleasure to see the  the white haired nonno  still  taking care of the conti and  the lovely nonna  shuffling back and forth, checking that everything is in order . 
vintage photo  Cafaggi's kitchen
(from Cafaggi Facebook page) 

They recently celebrated  their Diamond Wedding Anniversary.
a part of the Cafaggi family  
celebrating  Diamond wedding anniversary
(from Cafaggi Facebook page ) 

 Fulvio  has been  ordering  the same dish   at Cafaggi - cervello fritto  with carciofi fritti – for  the past   18 years and  a trip to Florence  isn’t complete without this  ritual. 

fried brain and artichokes, a Florentine ritual 
I  try a different dish each time and have never been disappointed.
spaghetti  allo scoglio 
risotto  with artichokes

We are creatures of habit. Once we have found the best,  why change?  


  1. While in Florence check out B&M Bookshop, Borgo Ognissanti, where copies of Travels to Tuscany & Northern Lazio , published in 2004 are available at discounted price.

  2. This is perfect timing Mary Jane- we are taking a short trip to Florence next weekend and would love to try a new-to-us place! - Heather

  3. Conoscere in anticipo, i piatti tipici delle località in programma da visitare, è ottimale per non perdere l'opportunità di provare sapori nuovi per noi e magari molto vecchi per chi li cucina !!
    GRAZIE Mary Jane - Regina

  4. Thanks, Mary Jane - I'm going to put this on my Pinterest board for guests planning day trips to Florence from Benano. And I hope to get there myself, too. - Karen