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| Funghi porcini are a local autumn speciality |
Now that it is November the days are definitely shorter (sunset was 5 p.m. today ) and the crisp autumn air entices many day trippers from Rome. Most out of town visitors come to see the area’s magical castles and medieval villages, to enjoy concerts and conferences, to pick up a supply of the newly harvested extra virgin olive oil the area is famous for. Some also come searching for a house in the area.
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| visitors after lunch in Ischia di Castro |
Our olive harvest is set for this week, but there are many other happenings too. Here is an idea of what autumn is like here in the Viterbo province, one hour north
of the bustling Eternal City.
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| ingredients and herbs |
To recharge
batteries and relax aching
muscles after the olive harvest
or a day of mushroom hunting, the
best remedy is to spend a few hours soaking in one of the many hot pools or terme that abound in the area.
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| huge hot pool, nearly empty |
I prefer the comforts of Terme Salus and Terme dei Papi, rather
than roughing it in one of the rustic hot
pools in the midst of the fields.
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| map of the Nature Reserve, Lake di Vico |
Other peaceful water activities are available at the three volcanic lakes of the area spanning the Rome and Viterbo areas: Di Vico,
Bracciano and Bolsena. The "off
season" has a special appeal for birdwatchers, trekkers and photographers .
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| all to myself.....Riva Fiorita, Lago di Vico |
Most seasonal lake side trattorie close down by November but larger ones and those in nearby towns
will be open on weekends.
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| vegetarian finger food by Bea Calia at Riva Fiorita, Lake di Vico |
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| The conference hall filling up |
Autumn is
peak season for the area's many cultural happenings. Here are a few photos from last Thursday
‘s illustrated talk “I Nostri Castelli..Veri Gioelli” organized at the Prefecture by
Archeotuscia with the participation of
several owners of local castles and historic homes.
More photos by Claudia Cavallo on my website.
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| Before the illustrated talk with owners of Castello di Proceno |
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| vintage leather chairs with coat of arms of the Prefettura di Viterbo |
The conference was a perfect fit since the previous
weekend had been dedicated to “Le
Giornate Farnesiane” when several castles and noble palaces
connected to the Farnese family were
open to visitors, some for the
very first time.
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| Stefano Aluffi Pentini prepares for concert in his castle, Ischia di Castro |
Archeoares
organized a conference with the Bishop of Viterbo and a visit to the hidden Baroque choir in Viterbo’s Duomo on Saturday afternoon.
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| the stone wall that cuts the Duomo off from its Baroque choir chapel |
There are
many more things to discover in this
area so close to Rome yet still so unknown.
Forget Tuscany and come to explore the area inbetween Rome and Florence with its
fascinating history, enjoyable itineraries and many activities.
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| paintings and frescoes in the hidden chapel |
If you don’t already have a copy of Etruria Storie e Segreti or the English edition Etruria Travel, History and
Itineraries in Central Italy, remember Christmas is coming up soon ! Direct
orders will enjoy a significant discount (bookshops must charge
full cover price of 12 euro) and we will be
happy to sign and ship
gift copies for you.
Rome residents: we
have been invited to present our books at
the Mercato di Testaccio on
Wednesday Nov. 11th
from 11 to noon, so stop by to say “hello” and enjoy a bruschetta with us. Stay for the guided visit of
the Monte dei Cocci at 3 p.m.
