50 Years In Italy

The Mystery of the Ringed Clothesline

2012-02-29T16:49:00.000+01:00

For this week's view of life in Italy, I have dipped into the archives of 50 years in Italy and offer this piece:

originally published on International Daily News, Rome

April 19, 1979

On theoutskirts of some villages and alongcountry roads you will notice wetlaundry spread out on the top of bushes to dry.

laundry as it was done in the past

This saves the trouble andexpense of setting up a clothesline and some say that it makes the laundrywhiter since it is in closer contact with the chlorophyll of the plants. Then why don’t the sheets become green?

And whatabout clotheslines in the city,especially those strung across courtyards and stretched between windows in theolder neighborhoods of Rome? Mostfamilies use the single pulley system with nylon cords or stronger ones with a steel center thathardly ever break.

Theclotheslines which stretch below my 5^th floor window, in the Prati neighborhood, are at the same time ingenious but extremelycomplicated systems: the antithesis of the sheets flung over low bushes to dry.

illustration for original article

There is astationary iron wire- which rusts and leaves indelible rust stains on Nonna’sheirloom linens- and a supplementary nylon cord, infinitely thin, which breaksat least once a year and must be repaired by splicing worthy of a Sixth Fleetsailor.

Along thisdouble cord are run a series of metal rings with hanging strings-white, brownand black, depending on their age.

To thestrings are tied the corners of the sheets, skirts and other family biancheria , then the rings, with clothing attached, are pushed out along the line with the help of anold broom handle, or perhaps two broom handles tied together, in order to reach the further end of the line.

Theconsequence of this system is that all the towels, napkins and tablecloths ofthese families, if not expertly ironed, remain with little rabbit ears on twoends.

On those annual occasions when I must help mynext-door neighbor repair the line I’ve tried some propaganda in favor ofclothespins and pulleys, but the years go by and the traditional systemprevails.

lavatoio, laundry house in Vetralla

The back story of this article: the neighboring family who used this incredibly complicated laundry system came from Vallerano, a small town close to where I now live.

It was the normal system in their town 40 years ago and they brought it with them when they moved to the big city.

Other stories about local laundry techniques can be found in the archives of Italian Notebook:

this article from 2007 ...

and this one from 2009 .

Keep them in mind next time you find yourself rinsing out underwear in a hotel sink.

What laundry methods do you have in your town? Unusual ones discovered in your travels?

In use since 1851

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Festivals of Fertility : Wedding of the Trees and La Barabbata

2012-02-26T17:09:00.000+01:00

In May each year the towns of Northern Lazio celebrate the fertile season with a series of ancient festivals. One is the Wedding of the Trees celebrated on May 8 in Vetralla which dates back centuries and is probably the first and most genuine ecological or "green" festival.

Costumed dancers follow the music of the town band, flag throwers perform and horsemen (and women) bearing bouquets of yellow broom gallop around the clearing in the forest atop Monte Fogliano.
The symbolic "wedding" between two giant oaks decorated with veils and garlands is performed and a notary's document is read and signed.

veils and garlands of yellow broom decorate the wedding of the trees

Viva la Madonna!!

On May 14th the village of Marta on Lake Bolsena hosts the Barabbata festival, prototype of all May fairs. Here the goddess Maia
(the month of May, mother Nature) is honored by the exclusively male participants.

The origins of the ritual, officially dedicated to the Madonna del Monte, are lost in time but athropologists explain that this magic-popular-pagan feast is an earthy celebration of fertility rites dating to pre-Etruscan times.

Led by horsemen, the slow procession of fishermen and farmers carrying the tools of their trades ( nets, guns and farmer's rakes) winds through town and up to the hillside sanctuary-Madonna del Monte- which is decorated for the occasion with garlands of fruits and flowers straight out of a Renaissance painting.

home made floats carry fruits of the land and lake

White buffalo help pull the homemade floats known as fontane that are piled high with artistically arranged cheeses, flowers, fruit and lake fish.

a team of oxen pull a float

At intervals the participants roar out songs and cheers to the Madonna while the girls and women oberseve from the balconies and throw down flower petals on the handsomest members of the groups.

(Learn more about the area's festivals in "Etruria: travel, history and itineraries in Central Italy" which can be ordered directly from my website .

Thanks to John Ferro Sims of London and Rob Mari of California for the photos.

You'll need a car to visit these festivals in Vetralla and Marta

Before the Blog...a short history of travel magazines

2012-02-18T23:17:00.000+01:00

Scena Illustrata, Firenze, agosto 1927 when travel was only for the wealthy

The rereading of Alain De Botton's evocative "The Art of Travel" brought to mind the question: what intiates interest in foreign travel ?

Weekend, published by Bolaffi/Mondadori, 1970s Italian travel magazine-a silk scarf was included with each issue

Is it the success of a first trip abroad that marks our fate and turns us into eternal expats, leading us to spend most of our lifetime in a place far from our original home?

Perhaps it was Discovery Channel's documentaries, the yellow National Geographic covers or, as in my case, the glossy covers and alluring photos and articles of Holiday magazine in the 50s and 60s.

Holiday, August 1947 special Maine issue

Nowadays the occasions for foreign travel have multiplied and it is easier to find out about exotic countries thanks also to the proliferation of excellent travel blogs, often written by local, professional travel writers.

For this new generationof travel writers/ bloggers, here is a short, nostalgic look at what it was like to write for travel magazines in past decades.

I wrote the antiques article for this issue

In pre-computer days magazine and newspaper articles were pounded out on an upright Royal or Olivettiwith two sheets of carbon paper inserted. Editors got thetop, good copy while the writer kept a carbon copy to file away.

a Rome-based travel magazine/guide

Mistakeswere corrected with a rubber eraser or whitener.
Then the race by bus orsubway to a downtown editorial office tohand in copy before deadline.

That is ifyou had a regular outlet for your writing.

Here is a list of most of the
articles published over 3 decades.

a short-lived Italy travel magazine

To find work, most freelancers in the 60s-70s-80s-90s depended on the annual yearbook known as “Writers Market”, a hefty volume that was expensive to ship overseas.

still going strong after several decades....

On staff of first western style magazine in USSR

If you were“pitching an article” to an editor inanother city or country, the query letter, with correct postage and an international replycoupon would be mailed, preferebly from the Vaticanpost office,considered more reliable than the Italian postal system.

despite its name, this Australian magazine came out monthly

Weeks would go by before you heard if the editor was interested, then months ( sometimesyears) would pass before payment wasreceived.

What a comparatively easy existence travel writers and bloggers have nowadays.

I'd be interested to know what your favorite travel blogs are.

Which ones do you use to help plan travel to another country?

Almost forgot, this is Carnival weekend. To see how Carnival is celebrated here in central Italy check out these previous posts:
Carnival in Northern Lazio
Vetralla's Carnival
Before the Guidebooks-English writers in Rome

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What Women Want on St. Valentine's Day

2012-02-12T17:11:00.000+01:00

Since the days of Chaucer and the Elizabethansthere were verses, trinkets and love tokens exchanged on this day.

Hand painted with birds, flowersand hearts, the products of an elegant society and education, these valentines were made in limitednumbers

A vintage Valentine would be lst choice for women who love antiques .

2nd choice -For the adventurous traveling woman, a visit to Terni, (100 kms. from Rome) where St. Valentine was bishop and died a martyrin 273. Hundreds of couples visit the tomb of the patron saint of lovers at theBasilica just outside town on this day. Stop to see the romantic Marmore waterfalls nearby, created by theRomans in the 2nd century B.C.

3rd choice - If you are in Rome, make a visit to view the sensuous sculptures of Canova and Bernini at the Borghese Gallery.

Drop in the gallery's restaurant afterwards for tea and, to remember the day, purchase a souvenir from the well stocked bookshop.

Approach to Galleria Borghese, Rome, once home to Paolina Bonaparte-Borghese

Bernini's sensuous Apollo and Daphne

Have the room to yourselves, at lunchtime in February

Roman statue from the Louvre

Paolina Bonaparte-Borghese as Venus, Canova's masterpiece

4th choice –have some chocolates on hand. Belgian chocolates with fresh cream are the bestbut easily spoil.

Erotic Etruscan chocolate can be found hidden behind a discreet red curtain in a central pastry shop in Viterbo.

5th choice-Learn a love poem to recite on the day like this sonnet by Dante.

Book of Dante's love sonnets, 1921

Illustrated by Dante Gabriele Rossetti

Most women would be perfectly happy with one of these surprises, two or three would be preferable. Let us know your ideas for special places to spend Valentine's Day where you live.

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The Heart of Rome Itinerary - with artist Justin Bradshaw

2012-02-03T22:32:00.000+01:00

Presenting at Travel Blogger Elevator, Feb. 11, Rome

Piazza Venezia and the Capitoline Hill, make up the pulsing heart of Rome and thus are the perfect starting point for a visit of the Eternal City.

La Piazza del Campidoglio/Capitoline piazza, oneof the most perfect urban spaces in the history of architecture, was designedby Michelangelo. Here visitors are greeted by a selection of marvelous statuary bits and equestrian statues.

Painting by Justin Bradshaw

These include twin statues of Castor and Pollux and inthe center of the piazza, that of emperor-philosopher MarcusAurelius.

The present statue is a reproduction of the original which is kept in the Palazzo Nuovo. It is the only Roman bronze statue that survived the medieval period-because it was thought to portray a Christian emperor.

Marcus Aurelius - Rome city hall

Courtyard of the Capitoline Museum

The area had acompletely different look before the Victor Emanuel monument was built between the years 1885 and 1911.

In this sketch by Ludovico Caracciolo (circa1830) the towers of the Farnese gardens which once stood on the spot are visible.

King Victor Emanuel statue, Vittoriano

She wolf and twins, the symbol of Rome

NathanielHawthorne described his visit to the Capitoline museums in a March 1859 diary entry and later used them as the setting for his novel “The Marble Faun”.

entrance to Capitoline Museums

“I went to the sculpture-gallery of the Capitolyesterday, and saw, among other things, the Venus in her secret cabinet. Thiswas my second view of her: the first time, I greatly admired her; now, she madeno very favorable impression.

a Roman lady

The Dying Gaul

We looked at the Faun, the Dying Gladiator, and other famous sculptures; but nothing had a glory round it, perhaps because the sirocco was blowing. These halls of the Capitol have always had a dreary and depressing effect upon me, very different from those of the Vatican. I know not why, except that the rooms of the Capitol have a dingy, shabby, and neglected look, and that the statues are dusty, and all the arrangements less magnificent than at the Vatican. “

a room full of Roman busts

music among the sculptures

doorway to exhibition rooms, behind the Vittoriano

Roman Forum seen from Campidoglio hill

all the world comes to Rome

Many writersand painters described the Capitoline especially during the Grand Tour period.

London-born painter Justin Bradshaw is a perfectguide to the modern pulsing heart of thecity: the Capitoline, Piazza Veneziaand adjacent neighborhoods which heknows well.

“I can't help admiring the Vittoriano'sunashamed self-celebration, like a wedding cake it announces that it is thecentre of the festivities”,

confesses artist JustinBradshaw,

who has dedicated many hours painting the imposing structure as wellas the quiet corners and courtyards suchas the Turtle Fountain in Piazza Mattei, shop windows and reflections which can be admired on his website.

painting by Justin Bradshaw

Piazza Venezia and Vittoriano by Justin Bradshaw

Every year the artist’s newest works are shown at a personal show at Sestrierigallery in Piazza Margana, just a stone’s throw from the monumental PiazzaVenezia.

With artist Justin Bradshaw at recent personal exhibit, Piazza Margana, Rome

Bradshaw,who lives and works between Romeand his studio in Civita Castellana, has also illustrated booksabout historic travel.

The Capitoline/Campidoglio is also aromantic place as the announcements forweddings taking place in Rome are posted there and the springtime sees aflurry of civil weddings held inthe lovely Sala Rossa.

underground lapidarium linking Capitoline's buildings

VIP lift

The Vittoriano or Altar of the Fatherland, holds the tomb of Italy’s unknown soldier as well as several exhibitionhalls, Museums dedicated to Emigration and the Risorgimento.

Scholars visiting the Risorgimento library will also travel back in time: theoriginal 1908 wrought iron elevator is still the only way to arrive to the Archives located on an upperfloor.

Most tourists will be content with the panoramic glass elevator installed in 2007 on the external part of the monument.

A lucky few will get a chance to ride in the wood panelled hexagonal VIP elevator in the Capitoline Museums.

When the construction of themonument was being completed, architects and workers enjoyeda banquet inside the belly of the 12 metre high bronze horse statue that is its centrepiece.

Napoleon’smother, Madame Mère, lived out her life in the palazzo facing the Vittoriano, and kepther eye on happenings, including the annual Carnival festivities, from this shuttered balcony on the corner of Via del Corso.

When hunger strikes, there is a bar restaurant with panoramic terraces,

pricey snacks and a covered dining area on the upper level of the Capitoline Museums.

panoramic terrace of Capitoline Museums, views to Ara Coeli & Vittoriano

City employeesand vigili urbani take their coffee breaks at this busy snack bar near the Treasury offices .

Treasury office, Campidoglio

secret snack bar

Your comments on this and the Umbria Itinerary with artist Patricia Glee Smith are welcome.

Umbria Itinerary: with artist Patricia Glee Smith

2012-01-23T23:56:00.000+01:00

Otricoli at sunset

Via Cassia & Via Flaminia lead north from Rome

In thepast few decades many expats , including myself, have abandoned the chaos and high prices of Rome toenjoy the quieter lifestyle and largerspaces found in small towns along the original Roman roads such as the Via Cassia and the Via Flaminia.

center of Otricoli

Built to connect the empire, these roads, separated by the Tiber river valley, and now also by the Autostrada del Sole, led north into Etruscan territory.

Roman inserts surround a medieval door, Otricoli

Artist Patricia Glee Smith found her Umbrian hideaway at the 70^th kilometer of the Via Flaminia in the ancient hilltop town of Otricoli, a silent medieval village located a stone’s throw from the ruins of a rarely visited site of ancient Roman Otriculum.

entrance to Otricoli

Patricia now prefers her quiet Umbrian hill town to the cacophony of central Rome where she was a longtime resident.

painting by Pat Smith, cover illustration for "Etruria-travel,history and itineraries"

Her evocative paintings can be seen on her website. They include the misty hills and olivegroves of her adopted Umbria and still life paintings of objects from her vast collection.

The artist in her studio

arriving in Otricoli

Model and antiques dealer

When she needs a human model it is often a neighbor or local friend, like Isabella who posed as Sybil, the fortune teller, for a recentportrait.

Syblil/Isabella invited us in to browse in herCose Vecchie shop on the outskirts of Otricoli .

A jumble of antique objects, furniture , vintage clothing, records, books and decorative items, itis a picker’s paradise with prices morethan reasonable.

Forcenturies Otricoli was very poor, a fact that helped save its original character.

Where there is little wealth for renewing old buildings there also are no uglyadditions or aluminum shutters.

Even the original cobblestone lanes havebeen restored using original techniques and hand labor.

view from Patricia Glee Smith's terrace, Otricoli

Home forthe artist is a 12th entury palazzetto set on the ancient town walls that she and husband Giangi have slowlybrought back to life with a loving restoration.

work in progress

Because many of Pat’s canvases are of large format, she has set upher studio in the modern part of town where she has ample light and work space forthe creative process.

Many thanks to Patricia Glee Smith for her photos of Otricoli.

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January Sales Italian Style

2012-01-15T18:22:00.003+01:00

Shopping for bargains in January is a tradition the world over. Roman families take advantage of the 20% discounts on beautiful bed linens and towels offered by the city's exclusive shops.

Here in Vetralla, 68 kms north of Rome, it takeson a deeper significance at the mega market of January 17^th which has been held for centuries and is dedicated to Sant’Antonio, St.Anthony Abbot, protector of animals.

The celebration begins the evening of the 16th with a huge bonfire in nearby Bagnaia. Here are some photos of the event by Gianfranco Pignatale.

a family of grey cats waiting for a blessing

The morning of the 17th sees the blessing of pet dogs, cats and horses in front of the church. Most offices are closed and the school kids play hookey as the whole town turns out to shop all day long.

fresh berries and dried fruit

Hundreds of bancarelle (stalls) fill the centro storico, selling everything from dried fruit and sweets to fishing boots.

The dried fruit vendors who come fromthe nearby hilltowns of Vallerano and Canepina offer dried figs, chestnuts, pepperoncino as well as imported banana, pineapple, and even cranberries from the bogs of Cape Cod. They travel so far and wide that traditionsays when Columbus arrived in the New World, there was one of these stallswaiting for him.

Selling dried cranberries from Cape Cod

fluffy dresses

Penny Candy and nuts

You can find brightly colored penny candy next to fluffy dresses, tools and knives, artificial flowers andceramic kitchen utensils onsuccessive stalls.

Most of all it’s a time to stroll among the crowds, greetfriends and family, show off new family members or a new fur coat….shopping is secondary.

What's on your January sales shopping list? What bargains have you found?

Top Ten Italian Beaches

2012-01-11T00:12:00.001+01:00

As soon as the Christmas tree has beentaken down, smart travellers start thinking of their summer vacations.

Everyone has a favorite beach along Italy’s8,600 kms of coastline, but if you ask ten Italians where their country’s bestbeaches are, nine will give you the name of an island, usually Sardinia.

After almost 50 years in Italy I have visited most of the islands and beaches but since I am more of a history & museum person, I got a little help from my friends to put together this insider list of Italy’s ten bestbeaches.

1. Italy has about400 islands, some just uninhabited rocks, others organized as stunning summer resorts. Crystal-clear water, unspoilednature and unique folklore and culture can be found on the island of Sardinia.

a beach in Sardinia

From the littlepeninsula of Stintino to S. Teresa di Gallura in the north-easterncorner, lies a Riviera of emerald water and fine sandy beaches, some of themwith pink sand and some only large enough for a couple of beach blankets.

the spiaggia rosa ,Sardinia

Old towns, manydating from the 12^th centuryare dominated by castles and walls which once held pirate raiders at bay. Summervillages and hotels are modern, elegant and offer facilities for water sports,swinging nightlife and fine eating.

A relatively unknown part of Sardinia is the island ofSan Antioco in the south-western corner. Here gourmets can gorge themselves onlocal lobster and tuna and the wines of Calasetta.

Unless you are a millionaire, avoid the expensive resorts on the Costa Smeralda and stay clear of beaches near largecities, like Cagliari's Poetto unless its low season.

2. The 400 inhabitants of Stromboli island are not jittery even though theylive on a still-active volcano in theAeolian archipelago north of Sicily. Famous for its black lava sand beaches,the comforts of civilization are assured although drinking water is brought inby cistern ship during the dry summers. Stromboli is memorable for its natural firework displays that awe cruise ship passengers when they sail past in the night.

Closer to the Sicilian coast is the greenerisland of Vulcano, with lovely beachesand mud baths. Both Stromboli and Vulcano can be reached by ferry from Milazzoin Sicily.

Stromboli island

3. The Tuscan island of Elba, reachable by ferry from the port of Piombino, is knownfor having once housed the exiled Frenchemperor Napoleon. Its green rolling hills, beaches like Biodola nearPortoferraio, and laid-back lifestyle make it a perfect getaway. This is the only one of the Tuscan islands I have yet to visit, but this September I'll be lecturing on a luxury cruise that stops there.

4. In northern Italy the Venetian lagoon holds severalislands worth a visit. The Lido is a quick vaporetto ride from crowdedSt. Mark’s Square and is probably Italy’s most beautifully equipped beach with exclusivebeach cabins, tents, white-jacketed waiters scurrying with ice buckets from theExcelsior’s bar and a famous gambling casino and annual cinema festival.

Chioggia, at the southern tip of the Venetian lagoon, is 40 miles fromVenice by road or a two-hour cruise from Riva degli Schiavoni. An importantfishing center, it boasts the lively Sottomarina beach, plenty of good hotelsand nightlife.

Lido, Venezia

5. Ligurian beaches include those of Diano Marina and the picturesque hilltown of Cervo Ligure a few miles up thecoast from San Remo of music and casino fame.

Diano Marina, Liguria

6.The stretch of beaches near Rimini on the Adriatic coast is a swinging summer spotwith 15 kms of white sand, clean water and droves of Scandinavians, Russiansand Anglo-Saxons from spring to autumn. Each year the best beaches areawarded prizes signalled by a “bandiere blu” flag.

7.Fregene and Ostia are Rome’s seaside resorts where a midday dip in theMed is possible before returning to the city. These beaches are fine during theweek but are guaranteed to be very crowded on weekends. Ostia is connected todowntown Rome by a rapid train and has the added attraction of thearcheological site similar to Pompeii, Ostia Antica.

8.Campers love the sandy coastal beaches backed by pine groves between Albinia and Talamone near Grossetobecause of several inexpensive campgrounds . Gastronomic delights of the areainclude wild boar stew in the inland medieval hill towns , like Capalbio . Try La Parrina estate for cheeses made onsite, farm produce, local wine and oil.

deer in La Feniglia nature reserve

Beaches on the Argentario peninsula are renowned vacation spots: choose from La Feniglia where the toplessratio gets higher every summer, near PortoErcole and Porto Santo Stefanoand La Giannella , a family beach.

9.In southern Italy folks dote on the Calabrian coastand the islands of Pantelleria and Lampedusa which are invaded by water and scuba-diving enthusiastseach summer. The swimming is great here even in October since the latitude isthe same as northern Africa.

10. Sincenaturist always find the best, isolated beaches, I asked Fulvio, who has beenchecking out Italy’s beaches for over 50 years, to give his vote.
His number one beach is Cala Coticchio ( the locals call it Tahiti) on the island of Caprera inSardegna. I only knew Caprera asthe refuge of Italy’s national heroGaribaldi, so its best to ask the experts.
Fulvio's second choice was Cala Brigantina , a fiord like beach where a French club even set up a resort. Both of these arereachable only by boat or after a long, hot walk .

Remember thatmost Italian beaches are at their bestin July, September and on weekdays, rather than weekends.
The peak season of mid-August and the Ferragosto holiday will see you paying up to 50% more for rental accommodations. Inlate spring and other summer months you can save and enjoy better service.

For more information about Italy's best beaches check out Trippando and Travel Moments in Time. For photos of Elba check out one of the island's accomodations, the Acacie Resort .

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Sphinxes and Pyramids...of the Etruscans

2012-01-01T17:16:00.000+01:00

History tells us how the Etruscan civilization was overcome by the Romans asthey expanded north from the banks of the Tiber. Here inEtruria or Tuscia, 80 kilometres northof Rome, we can draw lines on the map connectingthe towns of Vetralla, Tarquinia andTuscania to make an “ Etruscan Triangle”.

Here vestiges of the Etruscan civilization abound and newfinds are coming to light as I write on this very first day of the New Year, 2012.

Many ofthese new-found sites are described in a small, compact guidebook “MonumentiRupestri Etrusco-Romani tra I Monti Cimini e la Valle del Tevere“ by StephanSteingraber (my neighbor here in Vetralla) and Friedhelm Prayon.

Associazione Canino Info Onlus 2011

The45 monuments have a wide variety of forms - but all of them are excavated or sculpted, rather than built.

Often it is difficult to distinguish what ismade by humans and what has been shaped by nature and the passing of time.

There are platforms with and without steps, steps without platforms, cubes , tubs, facades, niches, tombs andothers inscribed with Etruscan lettering.

The mostimpressive of these stone carved monuments uncovered by researchers near Soriano, Bomarzo, Canepinaand Vitorchiano are the altars and pyramids.

The pyramidnear Bomarzo has sparked many discussions, some say it resembles closely the Aztec pyramid structures with its 22 steps leading up to a platform.

Photo by Luciano Proietti

Sphinx at Villa San Michele, Capri

Etruscan Sphinx of Cortona

InVulci the newest find –just this week-is a one metre tall sphinx that proves the Etruscans of central Italy had much in common with their Egyptian neighbors.

Similar sphinxes have been discoveredfurther north, in Cortona and Chiusi.

Sphinx discovered at Vulci

The sphinx never really faded from local artistic memory and during the Middle Ages this lovely one was sculpted as a tomb decoration for a member of the noble DiVico family of Viterbo.

Have you ever noticed this sphinx ?

Visitors to Viterbo’s Civic Museum, canadmire it as well as another monument which harks back to an invented/imagined Egyptian originof the city of Viterbo.

Isis and Osiris plaque

This Renaissance sculpture has profiles of Egyptian gods Isis and Osiris and an inscriptionmentioned in diaries of early visitors to the city, including Cardinal Henry Stuart, last of the royalStuart Kings of England.

Localwriter Linda Lappin has incorporated some of the Etruscan lore and mystery into her Gothic novel “The Etruscan”.

Winter is the best time to explore Etruscan sites in central Italy for there are no problems with snakes and high grass.

With this little volume by Etruscologists Steingraber and Preyon as a companion to my latest book about the area in your backpack, you will be able to follow in the footsteps of George Dennis and other early explorers of Etruria.

Your ideas and questions are welcome. Please share with friends .

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Becoming a part of the Christmas story

2011-12-25T19:27:00.000+01:00

Youmight have caught a glimpse of the groupof costumed characters with bleatinglambs on a corny RAI-TV musicalshow a few nights before Christmas.

They were a small delegation of our town’s Presepe Vivente group, (100+ persons) which celebratesits 25^th anniversary thisyear.

Over the past quarter century, this live Christmas scenehas become a tradition and part of the town’s folklore. Everyone has at least one family member who has played a part in the Christmas story.

Giacomo, my computer guy, was baby Jesusduring the first edition and Paolo, who played a Cardinal last year has movedup to become San Giuseppe thisyear.

Young girls work their way up from “extras” in the market scene to washer women withonly a few lucky ones selected at age 16-17 to play thepart of Madonna-of-the-year.

For city dwellers, a trip to view one of thesecountry Presepi Viventi, is an excellent antidote to commercialism which often blights the holidays.

Foreign visitors delight in this plunge into the past for it satisfies theromantic vision of Italian lifestyle.

Local people are pleasantlysurprised as they see the well preserved medieval quarters of their town, for the first time, in a different light.

The audience participates in theChristmas story as they walk through the different scenes some designed like Roessler Franz paintings: the wash-house, the market, artisan’sworkshops, the osteria, theschoolhouse.

The final scene of the Holy Family and themanger is set inside an abandoned church.

Here shepherds prepare ricotta over an openfire and offer children a chance to patthe lambs and taste a slice of bruschetta doused with the areas’s famous extra virgin olive oil.

By retelling the Christmas story using the townspeople asactors, plus lights and music, the organizers have created an historical “Soundand Light” show that is a continuation of those miracle and mystery plays used to explain the Bible in medieval times.

For a full list of the Christmas presepi viventi in the area check the Provincia's website

Check the Pro-Loco website for morephotos of past editions of Vetralla’s presepe vivente and the evenings when the Presepe will take place (at dusk until approximately 7:30 p.m) during the holiday week.

Many thanks to Dietmeyer Frensemeyer for his photos of the medieval vicoli di Vetralla, where the presepe is held.

Photos of past editions by myself.

Before the Guidebooks: English Writers in Rome

2011-12-12T18:37:00.001+01:00

Rome's most popular guidebook seems to be Eyewitness Guide to Rome, to which I contributed in the early 1990s when I lived just behind Castel Sant'Angelo, in the Prati quarter.

Castel Sant'Angelo Bridge -where pilgrims crossed

With its colorful illustrations and maps it is a far cry from the first English language guidebook to Rome, “Ye Solace of Pilgrims” written by John Capgrave for the Holy Year of 1450

Corso Vittorio bridge with Janiculum, Santo Spirito and St. Peter's

In the 16th century English poets Spencer and Milton praisedclassical Rome but also expressed antagonistic sentiments since these were the years King Henry VIII was breaking with the Church ofRome.

Villa Caldogno, Vicenza (photo D. Longo)

Nonetheless the English were fascinated by all things Italian; Palladianstyle country houses and Italian gardens .

Follow this link to Daniela Longo's website to read about Palladian villas in the Veneto area .

Hanbury gardens, English style in a Mediterranean setting

The founders of the Romantic Movement,Wordsworth (in 1838) and Coleridge (in 1804-6) both visited Rome. Shelley wrotebeautiful lyrics inspired by the Italian sky while living on Via del Corso buthis private letters showed his disgust with Rome.

Lord Byron also had ambivalent feelings aboutthe city: enthusiastic and rhetorical in Childe Harold’s Pilgrimage (“O Rome!Mycountry, city of the soul!”) while he criticized Italy and Italian customs inhis private letters

English travelers had ambivalent feelings about religious ceremonies

Santa Maria in Trastevere-first church dedicated to Mary in Rome

Poor Keats, who came to Rome seeking relief from thetuberculosis that was killing him, died within the year.
The icy cold tramontana winds and drafty palazzi are still treacherous nowadays.

When Charles Dickens arrived in Rome onJanuary 30, 1845, by way of Genoa and other northern cities, it was a rainy,muddy day at the beginning of Carnival time. His description of St. Peter's square shows his enthusiasm.

“The beauty of the Piazza in which it stands,with its clusters of exquisite columns, and its gushing fountains -so fresh, sobroad and free, and beautiful - nothing can exaggerate…the first burst of theinterior, in all its expansive majesty and glory; and most of all, the lookingup into the Dome is a sensation never to be forgotten.”

Dickensdescribed his wonder at the Easter illumination of St. Peter’s dome whenscampering workmen, the sampietrini,risked their lives to simultaneously ignite burning flares which outlinedthe cupola against the night sky.

“…the whole church, from the cross to the ground, lighted withinnumerable lanterns, tracing out the architecture and winking and shining allround the colonnade of the piazza…every cornice, capital and smallest ornamentof stone expressed itself in fire and the black solid groundwork of theenormous dome seemed to grow transparent as an eggshell.”

From St.Peter’s, Dickens had his coachman bring his party to the Colosseum arriving there ina quarter of an hour, much quicker than we could do it with today’s traffic.

“To see it crumbling there…its walls andarches overgrown with green, its corridors open to the day, the long grassgrowing on its porches, young trees of yesterday springing up on its raggedparapets and bearing fruit…to see the peaceful Cross planted in the center, toclimb into its upper halls and look down upon ruin, ruin, ruin all about it…isto see the ghost of old Rome, wicked, wonderful city, haunting the very groundon which its people trod.”

Also American writer Nathaniel Hawthorne was taken by Rome and described hisvisit to the Colosseum in the pages of TheMarble Faun written after his 1858stay in the Eternal City. The author of The Scarlet Letter and Houseof Seven Gables found himself in quite a different element duringhis evening visit to the great amphitheatre.

“As usual of a moonlight evening, severalcarriages stood at the entrance of this famous ruin and the precints andinterior were anything but a solitude…There was much pastime and gaiety justthen in the area. On the steps of the great black cross in the center of theColiseum sat a party singing scraps of songs with much laughter and merrimentbetween the stanzas..it was a strange place for song and mirth. That blackcross marks one of the special blood spots of the earth where the dyinggladiators fell thousands of times over.”

His remarks onthe pacific co-existence of religion and merriment also bring him far from histhemes of Puritan New England.

“... in Italy religion jostles along side by sidewith business and sport and people are accustomed to kneel down and pray, orsee others praying between two fits of merriment or between two sins.”

Hawthorne had alove-hate relationship with Rome for he had caught cold upon arriving bycarriage from the port of Civitavecchia and his daughter, Una, almost died witha flu she caught staying out late to sketch in the Forum.

In his notebooks he pondered on the moulderingpalazzi, the filthy streets, thebeggars and ragged children but when the sun came out Rome became for him “apoetic fairy precint” where he gained inspiration for his new novel whileexploring the Borghese gardens and wandering among the marble statues of theCapitoline Museums. He found Rome growing on him,

“..Noplace ever took so strong a hold of my being, nor ever seemed so close, sostrangely familiar”.

Castle Sant'Angelo from the banks of the Tiber

After havingkept himself aloof during the Carnival that first year in Rome, Hawthorne fullyparticipated in the next year’s festivities and he began wondering how he and his family would live backin their New England village where “…thereare no pictures, no statues…Rome certainly does draw into itself my heart as Ithink even London or even little Concord or old sleepy Salem never did andnever will.”

While Italian writers were complainingabout Papal censorship Hawthorne enjoyed freedom of expression, “Rome is not like one of our New Englandvillages where we need the permission of each individual neighbor for every actthat we do, every word that we utter, and for every friend that we make orkeep. In these particulars the papal despotism allows us freer breath than our native air.”

Together withthe author of Moby Dick, Herman Melville, Hawthorne snubbed the artistic gatheringplace, Caffè Greco, for they both disliked the smokey, bohemian atmosphere.

Melville however did frequent the Lepre trattoria across the Via Condotti where the foreign artistic colony ate economically and met friends. How envious are we when we discover that hedined at the Lepre for 19 cents and how we sympathize with his remark that hewas “fagged out completely” after a first cursory visit to the Vaticangalleries.

Trattoria Lepre, unfortunately, no longerexists and Via Condotti has become one of Rome’s most expensive shoppingstreets but the Caffè Greco and another historic landmark, Babington’s TeaRooms, are still there at the bottom of the Spanish Steps serving out cakes,tea and atmosphere.
Between 1863 and1868 the American Legation was located in the back room of a private bankingfirm on the same premises now occupied by Babington’s.

Because of the area’s concentration ofAnglo-Saxon creative people it was known as the English Ghetto and signs of the passage of many well-known writers andartists are still to be found there.

The Brownings,Robert and Elizabeth,lived at number 41 Via Bocca di Leone; Keats in the housethat is now the Keats-Shelley Memorial at the bottom of the Spanish Steps,thepainter Turner had rooms at number 12 Piazza Mignanelli where a fast food restaurant stands today and James Joyce, still an impoverished bank employee, livedon Via Frattina with his family.

In 1867 Mark Twain visited the city thathe called “a museum of magnificence and misery”. Slowly he learned to like Rome and adoptedthe Romans’ lifestyle as he “began to comprehend what life is for".

Henry James, the very international Americanauthor, made his way to Rome in 1869 and paused at the D’Inghilterra Hotel,which is still on Via Bocca di Leone, just long enough to leave his bags. Thenhe ran out, criss-crossing the city on foot for about five hours “in a fever of enjoyment” and at the end ofthis first day in Rome wrote to his brother back in Boston,
“At last - for the first time- I live!”

Many thanks to Dietmar Freynsemeyer for the use of his magnificent photos of Rome

Coming Next Week: early travelers in the Rome countryside

Vintage gifts in Rome and the countryside

2011-11-30T21:38:00.001+01:00

What was Christmas shopping like in Rome 30+ years ago?

As part of the Italy blogging round table about gifts, I offer a look at gift giving in Italy in the past and how we can recapture the spirit of "olde Italy" today.

Take a walk down memory lane with this, my first article published on the English language press in Italy, for which I received 15,000 lire, a princely sum in those days.

The theme of this vintage article: how to save money by investing in intelligent gifts, rather than just mindless spending, is still valid. In fact nowadays it is fashionable to be thrifty.

Useful, practical gifts are happily received and many shops in Rome and other cities are promoting this type of holiday gift-giving by issuing gift certificates.

Food products and cooking classes make excellent practical gifts.
Speaking of food...what better gift than a few litres of this year's extra virgin biological olive oil from one of the small, independent producers or cooperatives in the Vetralla area.

Lighting of the Christmas tree

Here are some photos taken today (Dec. 10th ) at the Olive Oil Festival here in Vetralla.

This year several stands are selling another speciality of the area : chocolate in its many shapes and forms

delicious chocolates made in Vetralla

liqueurs include limoncello

Antica Latteria production

plants and handicrafts, Il Cerchio

Ask your friends who produce olive oil if they have any new oil for sale.
Here is the calendar of events throughout the Viterbo production area

http://www.latuscia.com/it_evento_sagra-olio-extravergine-oliva-vetralla.php

While in Vetralla stop by Libri di Natura, the only shop still open in the historic center, near the Duomo, for stocking stuffers , period prints especially those featuring animals and birds, as well as hand made jewelery and antique glass wares

silverware from the past

vintage coffee makers and potato mashers

angels for Christmas

Who remembers using these ink pens? I do...

During the Olive Oil Festival (this weekend Dec 10-11) ) several bancarelle and artisans shops offer handmade and vintage items . Just a few euro and lots of nostalgia.

bell tower of San Silvestro,Rome

waiting for passengers in Piazza di Spagna

It was sad to see that almost every one of the places mentioned in the 1978 Christmas shopping article has disappeared.

Taking a stroll to Piazza S. Silvestro I learned that the huge Remainders bookshop closed about six months ago.

Thankfully the Anglo-American bookshop is nearby on Via della Vite and still flourishing . Besides the usual books in English about Rome, they carry Etruria Editions latest publications.
http://www.elegantetruria.com/newbooks.htm.

To re-live the atmosphere of vintage Christmas shopping stroll through the centro storico and enjoy the Christmas lights and crowds.

The large malls and shopping centers are to be avoided and preference given to independent, local shops.

Spanish Steps-high profile shopping area

angel via del Babuino

The prices in Rome's touristy Spanish Steps area (also known as the English Ghetto) have always been above most budgets. Only the Gran Mercato dell'Antiquariato on Via del Babuino was a great source for bargains.

The same type of bargain experience can still be found in Vignanello near Viterbo where country auctions draw dealers and collectors from all over central Italy.

The specialists source antique furniture and art objects here then resell them in their High Street antiques shops.
The previews are on this weekend and you can check the catalogue online http://www.eurantico.com/it/default.asp to see if there is anything that interests you or special people on your gift list.

general view Eurantico

Murano glass

kitsch ceramics

two beautiful desks

Remember that old saying --- one (wo)man's junk is another's treasure?

Next door to the auction center is a non-descript doorway leading into a series of tiny rooms filled with shelves and boxes of old books, magazines and knick knacks.

If you have time to browse and don't mind getting your hands dirty you might find a gem,.

...maybe one that will make someone very happy at Christmas.

books at bargain prices
.

Irish guidebook 1953 - 2 euro
Mussolini glass 1940 - 30 euro

Mario among his books and knick knacks

P.S. I came back with 4 books (spending 8 euro in all), including
a perfect first edition of "A Time in Rome" by E.Bowen

Check out the other Italy round table blog posts about gifts in Italy

http://www.athomeintuscany.org/category/italy-travel-blogs-roundtable/
http://www.arttrav.com/?s=roundtable&x=0&y=0
http://www.italylogue.com/tag/italy-roundtable

.http://www.brigolante.com/?s=roundtable

Olive Marmelade,Medlars and Discoveries in the Duomo

2011-11-26T16:42:00.001+01:00

We were not able to celebrate Thanksgiving with a traditional turkey dinner for local butchers make the birds available only after December 8th, the feast of the Immaculate Conception. Nevertheless several interesting things happened in this last week of November .

Here is a quick rundown.....

Conference at the Prefecture of Viterbo with archeologist Francesca Ceci

Prof. Stephen Steingraber, Francesca Ceci, Lt.Col. Luigi Grassi

Conference at the Prefecture, Viterbo

Archeotuscia conference

On Friday evening a large group of Air Force NCO Academy students with Lt.Col. Luigi Grassi followed the interesting conference on the Viterbo area’s rockhewn necropolis.

Winter is the best time to make outings to the numerous Etruscan sites that surround Vetralla, Viterbo and Blera. For information and dates for excursions check the website of Archeotuscia. www.archeotuscia.it

Discoveries in the Duomo

While preparing the new tourist guide for the town of Vetralla’s Pro Loco (a volunteer position!) I came upon this terracotta sculpture which had been hidden under a side altar for at least a century.

It depicts a very effiminate Adeodato, oneof the town’s early patron saints before St. Ippolito wasgiven this title. The blonde wig, dagger, clothing and sandals shows he was aRoman martyr.

Another special discovery was this marble ciborium dating from the Renaissance period. Itneeds a good cleaning and the door, which was probably of silver, is missing but at least it is still in place. A precious altar cloth (paliotto) seems to be missing.

Medlar (nespolo) Tree with Ripe Fruit

This single fruit tree set among our 80 olive trees, isa rarity today but they were often depicted in medieval frescoes and Renaissance tapestries.

The fruit is almost ripe and they have an ancient, unusual taste.

Have any of you ever tasted them?

our single medlar tree

Rosemary/rosmarino

Olive Marmelade –Marmellata d’olive

A few well laden olive trees were spared fromthe recent harvest and this week the big, black fruits weregathered by hand and made into marmellata d’olive.

It is a very time consuming task for the olive pits must be removed one by one- by hand.

Hoursof cooking and canning follow. The resulting marmelade will be used in several traditional Vetralla meat dishes during the year.

Fulvio picking the best olives for marmelade

the best, biggest olives are used to make this marmelade

Looking for the recipe ? It can be foundon p. 84 (next to the photo of Milenapicking olives) in Fulvio Ferri's recipe book “Olio e Ricordi in Cucina” available only at the Anglo Americanbookshop in Rome, Libri di Natura in Vetralla or better yet, directly from the author with an inscription and free postage to Italian addresses.

Visit this page to find out more and make your order in time for Christmas. DEc. http://www.elegantetruria.com/fulviorecipes.htm

Where tofind Mary Jane next week

Tuesday, Nov. 29 SanSilvestro Church, Rome 3 p.m. book signing. 4:30 p.m Santa SusannaChurch, Rome with books for the Christmas raffle.

Saturday, Dec.3 Loyola University Rome Campus, for Democrats Abroad meeting

Monday, Dec. 5 Università della Tuscia,Viterbo USAC Study AbroadProgram-meeting with Creative Writing group.

Indian Summer in Etruria

2011-11-15T21:40:00.004+01:00

During the past weekend while we watched the dramatic changes in Italy’s government and worried about the economic situation, life at the local level went on as usual with many social and cultural events to enjoy .

People seemed to be having more fun than usual: was it due to the perfect Indian summer days -l’ Estate di San Martino- or was the jubilant feeling connected to the political situation?

what happened to the "O"s?

November means the olive harvest but there is still time for visiting Rome, just 1 ½ hours train ride to the south.

It was a delight to see that our favorite independent bookshop Anglo-American on Via della Vite had given a place of honor in the main window to “Etruria-travel,history and itineraries in central Italy”.

If you are looking for Christmas gift books that don’t come from amazon http://www.theamericanmag.com/article.php?article=3025 come by on Saturday Nov. 19 at around noon and I’ll be happy to sign a personalized copy of one of my books.

Cristina of Anglo-American bookshop

window display features "Etruria"

Sergio Di Giacomo from Messina and Marcello
-book signing, Nov 19th at Anglo American bookshop

Even after 46 years in Rome there are still new discoveries to make, such as the interior of majestic Palazzo Cenci Bolognetti in the ghetto area .

study area

fresco of Roman Forum, Arch of Triumph, Meta Sudans

Porto Ripetta, Tiber river

office with a view

geometrical tiles in Palazzo Cenci Bolognetti

The fortunate American students who study here are surrounded by architectural details such as a spiraling staircase similar to that of Palazzo Farnese in Caprarola, frescoed walls and pavements exactly like those in my humble abode.

Friday Nov. 11 brought scholars from several universities to the Museo della Città e del Territorio in Vetralla to discuss San Francesco church, just across the street.

Viterbo’s new bishop H.E. Lino Fumagalli showed up after an unplanned tour of the surrounding countryside when his driver got lost and scholars discussed the frescoes, pavements, sculptures and history of the monumental church which holds the most complete fresco cycle of the life of St. Francis of Assisi.

Elisabetta de Minicis (r) director of Museum

Elisabetta Scungio, one of the speakers

Enrico Parlato (Univ della Tuscia) and other speakers

Stephan Steingraber, Fulvio Ferri and other attendees

Since Friday’s date had the magical numeration 11-11-11 (11^th day, 11^th month, 2011) it automatically was a special sort of day. Bookbinder friend Lucia and her husband celebrated the 120^th anniversary of their business Legatoria Viali with a show and reception in Viterbo.

hand crafted books by Legatoria Viali

a toast to 120 years of activity

Artist Nikki Borghese and antiques expert Elena Solari from Orvieto enjoy the sunlight

Sunday was also a very full day which began with a country barbeque at Le Masse di San Sisto, sponsored by AWAR- American Women’s Association of Rome .

Mario Bracci Devoti chats with one of the AWAR ladies

an American family discovers Le Masse, Vetralla

Swedish ladies at Le Masse, Vetralla/Viterbo

AWAR President Lee Skelton shares some wine with local artist

The reason for the party was to raise funds to create wells for drinking water. “Wine to Water “ was the theme and those attending were able to take a dunk in the hot thermal water, meet new friends and enjoy the delightful wines of Tenuta Castelnuovo Tancredi www.castelnuovotancredi.it .

Sunday evening brought another international cultural event to Vetralla, organized by Opera Extravaganza. .

Dragana Moles and Susanna Ohtonen -an international flavor to music

audience of lovely ladies from Holland, England, Germany Austria

How Dante saw Inferno

Serbian-born soprano Dragana Moles-accompanied by pianist Francesco Scialdone- delighted a large audience with a program of arias from operas and Neapolitan songs.

Learning about Canto V of Divina Commedia- Vetralla Library

Awards ceremony at University Tuscia

Winners of award for best doctoral thesis

And the weekend also brought the arrival of this year's harvest of extra virgin olive oil....celebrated with a fireside

dinner... the first of the season.

Music, Nature, History and Food ….a typical weekend in Etruria

2011-11-06T18:54:00.002+01:00

When city-bound friends ask about the life style here in the province of Viterbo, one hour north of Rome, I find it difficult to give a clear answer, for everything depends on the cycle of the seasons .

Now that it is November the major preoccupation is how the grape harvest went and the imminent olive harvest. Most events are connected to agriculture (see the post on the Chestnut Festival in San Martino ) but often – thanks to the many resident professionals in diverse fields of culture- there are happenings which enrich the usually quiet life of the Italian province.

In the last weeks of October two talented resident artists opened their personal shows in prestigious Roman galleries. The works of Justin Bradshaw and Patricia Glee Smith l are particularly appreciated since they have both graced covers of my recent publications.

cover by Pat Smith

At the end of October two benefit dinners in cantinas (COOP and Pro-Loco) took place here in Vetralla with excellent food prepared by local cooks.

Friday, November 4 Archeotuscia invited me to speak at the Prefecture of Viterbo as part of the celebration of the association’s anniversary.

Following a suspense-full half hour when it was unsure whether the projector would work or not, the conference hall was full to bursting and the audience broke out in spontaneous applause when seeing the connections between Viterbo/Etruria/Tuscia and such far away places as Egypt, Rhodes, Turkey, Malta, Greece and ports of the Black Sea.

The subject - the mysteries of Etruria/Tuscia-drew a wide range of people thus making it a difficult audience. The elderly local poets were balanced by foreign residents (prize-winning author Simon Mawer and his wife Connie of Anguillara) and student officers of the local air force academy.
Thanks to photographers F. Pignatale and L. Ricci for participating and to Francesca Ceci of Rome's Capitoline Museum for her kind introduction.

The long autumn weekend was the impetus for a visit from the IAS international archaeology club of Naples – the third time the group has visited the area.

President Leslie Xavier and her group enjoyed visits to UNESCO sites of Tarquinia and Cerveteri followed by lunch at Arcadia restaurant in Tarquinia where we met for dessert and book signing.

M.J. Cryan's books at Tarquinia Museum

small copy of the winged horses of Tarquinia

bookshop at Tarquinia Museum

walking to S. Maria in Castello, Tarquinia

Roberto Gildi's bookshop,Vetralla

Later the same evening a different, large group viewed the magnificent wildlife images of Silvio Tavolaro at Libri di Natura Roberto Gildi’s specialized bookshop in Vetralla’s historic center.

The shop was crowded with nature lovers and bibliophiles including the president of LIPU Fulvio Mamone Capria and many weekenders from Rome.

part of the international audience, Libreria del Teatro, Viterbo

Sunday was dedicated to a concert of Chinese and Italian music by Pei-Te Hsieh, resident in Caprarola at Libreria del Teatro,Viterbo. The international audience included Chimei and Raffaello Orlando (Conseratorio di Frosinone), Santo Sammartino (SYA School), Princess Giada Ruspoli of Vignanello, American painter John Rykoff Ratner of Caprarola, Igor Leto of Trevignano/Malta and new residents of Vetralla from Holland.

Next weekend promises more interesting happenings including a day-long conference dedicated to Vetralla's San Francesco church (Friday 11th) an exhibit of Viterbo's historic bookbindery Legatoria Viali (11th to 14th ), the Wine Festival in Vignanello (Sunday 13th) and a Neapolitan-themed dinner at Castello di Santa Maria.

And they told me life outside Rome would be boring..

Italian Memorial Day

2011-11-01T18:20:00.000+01:00

Check out this piece written several years ago for Italian Notebook.
It tells what happens all over Italy on November 1 and 2....and why not to give chrysanthemums as a gift .

- - - - - - - - - - - -

On Tutti i Santi, All Saints Day, Nov.1st, and La Festa dei Morti, Day of the Dead, in Italy Nov.2nd, the dead are remembered by visiting their graves. Over these few days many families make an outing to the large cemeteries on the outskirts of the big cities (the traffic jams are legendary!).

During this long weekend (the 1st is a holiday), an all-Italian tradition is to decorate family graves and war monuments with yellow, white and other colored chrysanthemums, the bigger and fluffier the better. So although these flowers are colorful and lovely, be sure to NEVER bring them as a gift to someone’s home. Your host or hostess will not want them in the house, and not knowing what to do with them will probably invent some feeble excuse to place them outside the front door.

http://www.italiannotebook.com/events/italian-memorial-day/

Chestnut Festival in San Martino al Cimino, town of Donna Olimpia Maidalchini

2011-10-23T16:24:00.034+02:00

selling flowers in front of San Martino abbey

Olimpia Maidalchini was one of the most powerful women of the 1600s for as sister–in-law and reputed mistress of Pope Innocent X Pamphili, she held the purse strings of the Vatican, appointed cardinals and negotiated with foreign ambassadors .
Eleanor Herman, author of a fascinating biography of Olimpia, "Mistress of the Vatican, tells the story her life as "the secret female pope".

portrait bust of Olimpia by A. Algardi, circa 1650

interior of Abbey church

To escape the plague devastating Rome, Olimpia retired to her hilltop town of San Martino (today a suburb of Viterbo) in 1656 .

row houses of San Martino al Cimino

There she restructured the village making it the first example of town planning, built the magnificent abbey church and acted as benefactor to dowry less girls.

series of photo-paintings by local artist

Her wealth and power did not keep the plague away, and today her tomb can be admired in the apse of the huge church.

tomb of Olimpia Maidalchini

A perfect weekend outing just outside Viterbo, San Martino is known for its chestnuts and each October a festival is held to honor this local crop.

roasting chestnuts in huge "swing"

The festival , now in its 24^th year, sees market stalls in the historic center of San Martino which has been denoted a natural shopping center .

vigili urbani and panorama of the Sagra

colorful bags by B. Coluccia

Barbara Coluccia's handknitted hats and scarves

There are several handicrafts dealers selling jewellery, leather,textiles as well as gastronomic products of the area.

entrance to the Cantinone, Palazzo Doria Pamphili

The local restaurants offer special menus at a set price ( 25 euro) and in the Cantinone, once the stables of Donna Olimpia’s palace, tables are set up offering an abundant lunch (at 20 euro) for hundreds of visitors.

Alessandro's leather bags

Gioia Carpino makes jewelery

antipasto misto, mushroom soup, polenta, beans and steak
followed by roast chestnuts and biscott

Autumn dishes served during the Sagra include zuppa di ceci e castagne (soup of chickpeas and chestnuts), porcini mushrooms, sausages , grilled meats and suckling pig (maialino).

Montblanc

For those who are still hungry after the abundant 5-course meal, there are sweets such as castagne al rum con fonduta di cioccolato (chestnuts with rum and chocolate fondue), tozzetti with vinsanto, Montblanc and crostate with ricotta and chestnut puree.

The Sagra continues on 29, 30,31 October and l November. ..rain or shine....

Italy's Risorgimento and the American Civil War

2011-10-13T18:26:00.001+02:00

This year there have been a myriad of conferences dedicated to Italy's unification movement, the Risorgimento, since 2011 marks the 150th anniversary.
I was honored to be invited to speak and participate at several in Dublin, Rome and Torino .
During my recent visit back to the States this month, I realized how obscure the Risorgimento -and Italy's history in general- is for Americans.
Perhaps it is because of current events in Italy today or because the Risorgimento almost coincides with the Civil War in America, thus putting a shadow on happenings overseas.

The interest in the Risorgimento is greater in Ireland and England also because of the participation of Irish and English soldiers in the battles of 1860.

Thanks to Gary O'Neill, a photographer from Dublin, who sent in this image of the Papal certificate granting his ancestor a medal for his participation in the Battle of Spoleto.

Thus it is not so strange to have been invited to speak to a group of Italian air force students, to tell them of our shared history. Here is the story which I just found on the Italian Air Force website .

___________________________________________

Mercoledì 6 Aprile alla Scuola Marescialli dell’AM di Viterbo

la conferenza di storia in lingua inglese della scrittrice irlandese Mary Jane Cryan

11/04/2011 - Mercoledì 6 Aprile, la scrittrice irlandese Mary Jane Cryan ha tenuto, nell’ambito delle attività didattiche previste presso la Scuola Marescialli dell'Aeronautica Militare di Viterbo, una conferenza sulla partecipazione di inglesi ed irlandesi al risorgimento italiano.
Alla conferenza hanno partecipato gli allievi Marescialli dei tre corsi presenti in sede, oltre ad una folta rappresentanza di personale del quadro permanente.

La conferenza, proposta interamente in lingua inglese, rientra nell’ambito delle numerose iniziative promosse per celebrare la ricorrenza dei 150 anni di storia dall’Unità d’Italia. L’uso della lingua inglese rappresenta un elemento di novità per quanto riguarda le conferenze tenute presso la Scuola e si inquadra nell’obiettivo della Forza Armata di potenziare in maniera importante, sin dalla formazione iniziale, l’apprendimento della lingua straniera per il personale.

La dott.ssa Cryan, che ha trascorso quasi 50 anni in Italia come storica, ricercatrice e docente di cultura Italiana presso Università internazionali, ha raccontato la storia, a molti poco nota, degli oltre mille volontari irlandesi del battaglione di San Patrizio che hanno combattuto per il Papa e della Legione inglese che ha sostenuto Giuseppe Garibaldi nella sua difficile impresa. Al termine dell’evento alla scrittrice è stato consegnato il crest della Scuola Marescialli.

Autore : Scuola Marescialli - Viterbo - Cap. Bambini Massimo

Borgia,

2011-09-18T23:23:00.003+02:00

Castles and Capers in Borgia Country

Loggia and fountain of Palazzo Farnese, Caprarola

Borgia, Farnese, Orsini… these are just a few of the powerful families who held sway in Etruria , an area north of Rome that the Italians call Tuscia Viterbese .

Borgia-Farnese castle, Nepi

Thanks to their connections, powerful papal nephews were able to acquire lands and create magnificent palazzi and gardens in this now quiet area north of Rome.

Nepotism allowed them to commission splendid estates and art work for their private enjoyment and to dazzle visitors.

As modern TV series show, many of the papal family members were not always up to religious standards.
Their lifestyles were often more outlandish and exciting than anything a script writer could invent today.

waterfall near Borgia Castle at Nepi

Farnese coat of arms, Nepi

Nepi - Borgia fortress

Lucrezia Borgia, daughter of Pope Alexander VI, Rodrigo Borgia, was often visitor in Nepi where the towers, massive walls and underground areas still ooze history even when a modern day gastronomy festival is happening.

One of the papal nephews of the Farnese family was responsible for the magnificent Palazzo Farnese, in Caprarola. Along with the Palazzo Farnese in Rome –the present French Embassy – it epitomizes Renaissance architecture and art.

upper gardens of Palazzo Farnese, Caprarola

upper gardens and Casina dei Piaceri

Caprarola’s Palazzo Farnese, designed by Architect Vignola, can be considered the original pentagon for it has 5 sides, a circular central courtyard and perfectly square or rectangular rooms.

And what rooms!

design by Justin Bradshaw

There are frescoed walls including the map room dedicated to explorers. The gilded ceilings and multi-colored terracotta tile floors are perfectly maintained mosaics . The south-facing rooms were used in winter,while those on the northern side, were lived in during the hot summers.

glazed terracotta tiles of the loggia, Caprarola

This hillside town named after goats (capra=goat) is a perfect place to relax in style, just as it was for powerful men of the past, from the Farnese popes and cardinals to Prince Charles and Italian presidents in pre-Berlusconi days.

view towards Rome from Palazzo Farnese, Caprarola

The views from the loggia of Palazzo Farnese stretch all the way to Rome (35 kms ) while Mount Soratte’s majestic outline looms in the distance.

fresco by Zuccari , Palazzo Farnese, Caprarola

The Zuccari brothers and their crew of decorators did not have to worry about expenses thus the Palazzo , its gardens , fountains and the Casina dei Piaceri show papal nepotism on a grand scale .

Along the lakeside road traveled by artists, architects and stone masons who worked with the wealthy families of Viterbo, Vetralla and Caprarola we find a simple fountain of Santa Lucia, emblazoned with Farnese symbols.

Santa Lucia, Lake DiVico , between Vetralla and Caprarola

Capers, considered an aphrodisiac, still grow today on the south facing walls and were used for medicinal purposes, to help digestion and hangovers.

Opening the hydraulic system for giochi d'acqua

Interestingly , the word caper, also means a joyful leap or a high- spirited escapade . Note the water games installed to surprise visitors with sprinkler systems that are still perfectly functional today.

Another “season of capers” happened in the early 1900s when an eccentric Boston lady and her daughters lived at the Palazzo and their lifestyle was immortalized in Gabriele D’Annunzio’s “Le Vergini delle Rocce”.

You will need a car to visit Caprarola . Our recommended agency offers 5% off rental fees

Find out more with a copy of "Etruria-travel, history and itineraries in central Italy".

Copies available with reduced postage for United States addresses will be sent only between Sept. 26 and Oct. 8.

Check out the latest reviews on www.elegantetruria.com

Mysteries of Messina- sea monsters, a musical clock and a phantom museum

2011-09-05T16:37:00.003+02:00

According to Greek mythology the Straits of Messina were home to sea monsters Scylla and Charybdis. Celebrated by Virgil and Homer, these dangerous monsters represented the difficulties sailors met when passing through the narrow passage separating Sicily from the Italian mainland.

The names Scylla and Charybdis ( in Italian Scilla e Cariddi ) have remained, even in the English language, to signify danger and the plight of having to decide between two evils.

Lovely beaches, villages and medieval castles dot both the Calabrian and Sicilian sides of the Straits , but the coast line is also marred by two huge steel plyons used between 1955 and 1994 to carry electric lines across the straits.

Let’s hope that no other monsters- giant wind towers or Berlusconi’s planned bridge- are constructed here.

Madonna greets cruise ships in Messina

When cruise ships arrive to the port of Messina, they are greeted by the Madonna della Lettera and find that they are in the heart of the city , making it easy to explore Messina on their own.

cruise ships next to an historic church

aftermath of 1908 earthquake

Most of the city was rebuilt after the 1908 earthquake which killed over 150,000 people. The bombings of World War II are another reason for the city’s present low buildings and wide streets.

Messina has seen a succession of civilizations: Greek , Roman, Saracen and Norman , but sadly very little of these ancient layers of history is evident at first glance. What is evident is the amazing astronomical clock on the bell tower next to the Duomo.

detail of Duomo's main doorway

Messina's rebuilt Duomo

the bell man, near Messina's Duomo

moving figures on the clock tower

Created by the Ungerer brothers of Strasbourg and installed in the rebuilt tower in 1933, it is more than a reference point to locate the city center.
The gilded mechanical figures representing people and happenings of local history make it the city’s major tourist attraction.

One wonders today about the political mechanisms and friendships that were activated (local bishop, governments of Mussolini and Hitler) to organize and pay for this mechanical wonder.

the angel points out the season, month, day

the astronomical clock, Messina

Renaissance fountain

At noon each day the main piazza with its magnificent 16^th century fountain, Duomo and tower is crowded with tour buses and visitors milling around waiting for the show.

A young couple, hoping for tips, entertains the crowds with their interpretation of the tarantella until the clock strikes noon and the bells peal. Then numerous mechanical beasts and statues put on a sound and motion show that lasts for a quarter of an hour.

improvising a profession in Messina

dancing couple

A 4 metre high gilded lion holds a banner, roars and moves its head and tail , a giant cockerel crows and flaps its wings and numerous figures representing other important moments in the city’s history move across the façade of the bell tower .

tourist train Messina

Following the show the crowd disperses to indulge in ricotta filled cannoli at the nearby pasticceria, or to ride the mini train that criss crosses the city center.

Another of Messina’s mysteries is the phantom museum located at the northern end of the modern single track train that runs the length of the city along the seaside.

Phantom museum of the Sicilian Region

The Regional Museum of Sicily, a huge modern complex meant to house the region’s art masterpieces must have cost a fortune.
Upon arrival at the end of the metro line - the crude reality. The majestic brick and glass building has never been opened, rather it is abandoned to the elements and overgrown with weeds.

Just built and abandoned

Visitors find the entrances closed up tight and after asking around, will be directed to an adjacent building .

This was once a spinning mill but for the past several decades is has been used as a storage depot where some of the region’s treasures can be seen.

entrance and guardian at old museum

Courtyard of old museum

bells at old museum entrance

blue and white ceramics in old museum

Coming Up
Where to find Mary Jane

Sept. 17- Rome- Meet the author - Overseas School, Via Cassia 811 Welcome Neighbor Fair from 11-5

Sept. 19-Torino - Rettorato, Università di Torino-Presentation "The Irish and English in Italy's Risorgimento" during 5 day international conference

Sept. 22-Rome- American Womens' Association Garden Party, Villa Taverna, U.S. Ambassador's Residence

Sept. 23-24-Rome-John Cabot University- Risorgimento Conference

Oct. 14-Vetralla and Bolsena - Writers Conference and cooking class with American writers' group.

November-Viterbo- date to be announced- Conference in Italian-"Etruria nel Mondo"

Viterbo's Santa Rosa-celebration of strong men and a saintly girl

2011-08-25T16:35:00.000+02:00

Viterbo City Hall (photos by Francesco Pignatale)

When in Rome why not take a side trip to see one of central Italy’s most fascinating and little known events.

On September 3^rd, head north along the Via Cassia to the city of Viterbo (80th km) for the Festa di Santa Rosa,

kids dress as porters (photo F.Pignatale )

Viterbo's main bell tower

Usually quiet, the reserved medieval city fills with revelry and celebration for Viterbo’s patron saint Santa Rosa – a highly anticipated event, similar to the Palio in Siena.

Banquets, parades in historic costumes and a series of other events enliven the city’s piazzas and neighborhoods including San Pellegrino, considered Europe’s best preserved medieval quarter .

teenage porters practice by carrying a mini-macchina

100 strong men - the city heroes - Papal Palace (F. Pignatale, photo)

For more about the porters see www.facchinidisantarosa.it

The high point of the festival is the spectacular nighttime procession that has been happening for the past 750 years in honor of the city’s patron, Santa Rosa.

local girls dress as "rosebuds"

Nighttime falls and at 9 p.m. sharp the city is shrouded in darkness for all the lights are switched off to better see the candle-lit macchina, a colossal 30-meter-high tower of approximately 10,000 pounds, topped by a statue of the saint.

Viterbo is decorated in honor of Santa Rosa (author's photo)

Then the one hundred facchini di Santa Rosa (porters or members of a special fraternity) lift and carry the tower on a mile-long walk through the darkened city.

100 local heroes parade through town on Sept 3rd

At nightfall the porters carry the huge tower

Dressed in white, with a red sash, these facchini are Viterbo’s popular heroes who come from diverse social extractions but are united by the superhuman task of carrying the illuminated tower.

Duomo of Viterbo (author's photo)

More than 50,000 people crowd the city center to catch glimpses of the statue atop the “walking belltower” as it glides through the narrow streets, grazing buildings and balconies.

The Macchina di Santa Rosa on Sept. 3rd

The night time procession is best seen from a terrace,balcony or window. Tribunes are set up in several piazzas and tickets are available, but go quickly.

If you are not able to view the procession, make sure to catch the Mini Macchina evenings the week before when boys from age 6 to 15 practice carrying smaller models of the processional tower.

A magnificent historic costume parade with over 170 costumed characters takes place the day before, on September 2^nd from 5 p.m. through the historic center.

Learn more about this and other festivals in central Italy with my latest book

ETRURIA travel, history and itineraries in Central Italy

Copies available (also in e-book format).Click on the book cover at top left.

the saint's heart is carried in procession on Sept. 2nd

Thanks to Francesco Pignatale for the magnificent photos.

Romantic Waters :Cool places near Civitavecchia and other cruise ports

2011-08-19T00:44:00.002+02:00

Its hot, very hot . . and very quiet since its Ferragosto week. The town is almost deserted for most shopkeepers here in Vetralla take their holidays ferie at the same time

At least the postman postino has returned and after a week without, we now have daily mail delivery.

People hurry to get their shopping done early in the day then take refuge indoors protected from the scorching sun and high temperatures by ancient, metre-thick walls and closed shutters.

Locals find a shady place at one of the nearby lakes (Lake Vico, Bolsena or Bracciano) or at a nearby swimming hole with a pedigree.

This circular pool is actually a frigidarium dating from Roman times at Le Pozze di San Sisto half way between Viterbo and Vetralla. Its icy water is balanced by an adjacent hot pool caldarium and another luke warm one.

For tourists and visitors here are some more of the coolest places around:

If you are a cruiser docking at Civitavecchia you could trade a hot, exhausting day in Rome for a visit to Tarquinia (see previous blog post - exploring around Civitavecchia ) where the underground Etruscan tombs and quiet churches such as S. Maria in Castello provide welcome respite. See Dietmeyer’s website for a glance of this magnificent church http://www.dfaweb.de/santamaria/pages/image/imagepage11.html

fountain in front of Tarquinia's city hall

fountain of the Moors, Villa Lante, Bagnaia

River god fountain, Villa Lante, Bagnaia
(photo by John Ferro Sims)

Garden lovers will love one of the historic gardens like Villa Lante where the trickle of fountains and mossy pools give welcome relief from the heat.

grotto , Villa Lante

water gurgles down the rope fountain, Villa Lante

In the hill town of Soriano nel Cimino another trickling fountain -Papacqua- comes complete with a waterfall. Perfect for a cool walk is the Faggetta , a woodsy mountain top retreat located above Soriano.

Papacqua waterfall, Soriano nel Cimino

During the past several months my lectures series aboard Azamara Club and Royal Caribbean cruise ships have brought me to many foreign shores.

Here are a few of the romantic cool spots I have enjoyed discovering and will review in later blog posts.

in Istanbul - the underground Basilica Cisterna

The mysterious Medusa in Basilica Cisterna, Istanbul

in Montenegro the fiord (Bocche di Cattaro) leading up to the port of Kotor.

The Greek island of Santorini is home to the most romantic, and hard to get to, town of Oia with its whitewashed houses and blue domed churches

The same colors that we find back in Vetralla in this most romantic pool half-hidden inside a grotto.

Here are some photos I took today -with the temperature a scorching 39°C .

The lavatoio or washhouse located just behind my palazzo is another cool place that is tempting to use as an improvised splash pool.

Read more about it on http://www.italiannotebook.com/events/wash-day/